INTRODUCTION

Grand-voile

by Merri Fromm

Grande-voile (French for "mainsail") was inspired by the classic nautical mariniere, or Breton, sweater. I've added some ribs and simple cables for texture, but the blue stripes remain. When the basic mariniere was adopted by the French navy in 1858, it was said that the stripes made it easier to see sailors who had fallen into the sea. I think the stripes still look fresh and are also fun to knit.

model: Merri Fromm

photos: Gaius Nelson

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with 4 inches/10 cm of ease at chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm: 34.25[38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.25, 54.5, 57.5, 62.25, 66.25, 69.75] inches/87[98, 108, 118, 127, 138.5, 146, 158, 168.5, 177] cm
Length: 20[21.25, 22, 23, 24.25, 25.75, 26.75, 27.75, 28.5, 29.75] inches/51[54, 56, 58.5, 61.5, 65.5, 68, 70.5, 72.5, 75.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
KELBOURNE WOOLENS Scout [100% wool; 274 yd/250 per 100 g skein];
[MC] 105 Natural; 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] skeins
[CC] 412 Navy Heather; 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a light DK-weight 2-ply wool with a light twist.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #5/3.75 circular needle, 16 inches/40 cm long
1 US #5/3.75 circular needle, 32 to 40 inches/80 to 100 cm long
1 US #6/4.0mm circular needle, 16 inches/40 cm long
1 US #6/4.0mm circular needle, 32 to 40 inches/80 to 100 cm long
1 set US #5/3.75mm double pointed needles for working small circumferences in the round

Notions
cable needle
stitch markers
stitch holders
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/34 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in Cable Rib Pattern
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: This pullover is knit seamlessly from the top down. Back neckline is shaped with short rows and then the yoke is joined to work in the round. Body is worked without shaping. Sleeve stitches are set aside while the body is completed. Sleeve stitches are then picked up and knit down to the cuff.

Following the charts: While working increase stitches in yoke and sides of sweater, continue with Wide Rib Pattern/Cabled Rib Pattern as possible. If there are not enough stitches to work both the knit and purl of the rib (7 sts), work those sts in stockinette. Likewise, while working the decreases in the sleeves, ribs in the patterns will be eliminated. If there are not enough stitches to work both the knit and purl of the rib (7 sts), work those sts in stockinette.

CHARTS

Narrow Rib Pattern (Multiple of 7 sts, worked in the round)
Rnd 1 [RS]: *K2, p1, k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rnd 1 for pattern.

Wide Rib Pattern (Multiple of 7 sts, worked in the round)
Rnd 1 [RS]: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rnd 1 for pattern.

Cabled Rib Pattern: (Multiple of 7 sts, worked in the round)
With MC:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K3, 1/1 RC, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 3: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 4: *K2, 1/1 RC, k1, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 5: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 6: *K1, 1/1 RC, k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 7: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 8: *1/1 RC, k3, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 9: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Switch to CC:
Rnd 10: Knit.
Rnds 11–14: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Repeat these 14 rnds for pattern.

1/1 RC 1 over 1 right cross: slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit st from left hand needle, then knit st from cable needle.

DIRECTIONS

Collar
Using MC and smaller 16-inch needle, CO 98[98, 112, 140, 140, 140, 140, 168, 182, 182] sts and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work Narrow Ribbing for 5 rnds.

Yoke
Using MC and larger 16-inch circular needle, place unique marker for BOR and begin Wide Ribbing pattern as follows: *K5, p2; rep from * to end.
Work 14[14, 21, 21, 21, 21, 21, 28, 28, 28] sts in pattern for left back, pm, work 21[21, 21, 28, 28, 28, 28, 35, 35, 35] sts in pattern for left sleeve, pm, work 28[28, 35, 42, 42, 42, 42, 49, 56, 56] sts in pattern for front, pm, work 21[21, 21, 28, 28, 28, 28, 35, 35, 35] sts in pattern for right sleeve, pm, work 14[14, 14, 21, 21, 21, 21, 21, 28, 28] sts in pattern for right back.

Begin working short rows:
Continue in Wide Rib pattern, changing to longer circular needle as needed.

Short row 1 [RS]: Work in patt as estab to marker, sm, work 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3], w&t.
Short row 2 [WS]: Work in patt as estab to BOR marker, sm, work to next marker, sm, work 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3], w&t.
Short row 3: Work in patt as estab to BOR (slipping markers before BOR marker), sm, work to wrapped st, work wrapped st with its wrap, work 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3], w&t.
Short row 4: Work in patt as estab to BOR (slipping markers before BOR marker), sm, work to wrapped st, work wrapped st with its wrap, work 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3], w&t.
Repeat Short rows 3-4 3 more times.

Next row [RS]: Work in patt as estab to BOR.

Begin Raglan Shaping:
Continue working in Wide Rib pattern, knitting 2 remaining short row wraps with their sts in the first round when you reach them. As stitches are added, make new ribs as they are created.

Rnd 1: *Work to 1 st before next marker, kfb, sm, k1, kfb; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. Do not increase around center back BOR marker. 8 sts increased.
Rnd 2: *Work in pattern to 1 st before next marker, k1, sm, k2; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. Stay in pattern around center back BOR marker.
Rep Rnds 1–2 7[7, 7, 7, 9, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] more times. 37[37, 37, 44, 48, 52, 56, 63, 67, 67] sleeve sts, 44[44, 51, 58, 62, 66, 70, 77, 88, 88] front/back sts, 162[162, 176, 204, 220, 236, 252, 280, 310, 310] total sts.

Begin to work Cabled rib pattern, continuing to increase in pattern as set.
Rep Rnds 1–2 14[14, 16, 18, 23, 25, 27, 28, 30, 31] more times. 65[65, 69, 80, 94, 102, 110, 119, 127, 129] sleeve sts, 72[72, 83, 94, 108, 116, 124, 133, 148, 150] front/back sts, 274[274, 304, 348, 404, 436, 468, 504, 550, 558] total sts.

Continue increase on front and back only as follows:
Rnd 1: *Work to 2 st before next marker, kfb, kfb, sm, k1, work to next marker, sm, k1, kfb, kfb; rep from * 1 more time, work to end.
Rnd 2: *Work to 1 st before next marker, k1, sm, k2; rep from * 3 more times, work to end.

Rep Rnds 1–2 3[6, 5, 5, 3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 6] times. 65[65, 69, 80, 94, 102, 110, 119, 127, 129] sleeve sts, 88[100, 107, 118, 124, 136, 144, 157, 168, 178] front/back sts, 306[330, 352, 396, 436, 476, 508, 552, 590, 614] total sts.

Separate sleeves from body:
Next rnd: *Knit to first marker, remove marker and place 65[65, 69, 80, 94, 102, 110, 119, 127, 129] sleeve sts onto waste yarn.

Using the backward loop cast on, 3[3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, pm, cast on 3[3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, repeat from * once more, knit to end of rnd. 94[106, 117, 128, 138, 150, 158, 171, 182, 192] front/back sts, 188[212, 234, 256, 276, 300, 316, 342, 364, 384] total sts.

Body
Continuing in Cabled Rib Pattern as set, create additional ribs as enough sts are available and knit remaining side sts and markers on both side "seams."

Work in pattern as set until body measures approximately 8.5[9, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 11, 11, 11.5] inches/ 21.5[23, 24, 25.5, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5, 28, 28, 29] cm or 4.5 inches/12 cm less than desired length to hem, ending on Rnd 9 of the Cabled Rib Pattern.

With MC and continuing in Wide Rib Pattern matching previous ribs as set, work for 4 inches / 10 cm, or until 0.5 inches/1 cm less than desired length.

With smaller needles work Narrow Rib Pattern for 5 rounds. BO in pattern.

Sleeves
Rejoin yarn with larger needle and beginning at middle of cast on underarm sts, pick up and knit 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] sts into cast on edge of body, pm, knit held 65[65, 69, 80, 94, 102, 110, 119, 127, 129] sts, pick up and knit 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] more sts. Marker is BOR. 69[69, 75, 86, 100, 108, 116, 125, 133, 135] total sleeve sts.

Continue working in Cabled Rib Pattern matching ribs but at the same time work the following:
Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, work pattern until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Work 19[20, 18, 12, 8, 6, 5, 4, 4, 4] rounds.

Repeat the last 20[21, 19, 13, 9, 7, 6, 5, 5, 5] rounds 6[6, 7, 11, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 34] times total. 57[57, 61, 64, 66, 66, 66, 67, 67, 67] sts.

Continue in Cabled Rib Pattern, matching the pattern repeats of the body, then switch to Wide Rib Pattern.

Work pattern until sleeve measures 16.5[17, 18, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25, 19, 19] inches/42[43, 45.5, 46.5, 46.5, 46.5, 46.5, 46.5, 48.5, 48.5] cm or until 0.5 inch/1 cm less than desired length.

Change to smaller double pointed needles. Work Narrow Rib patt for 5 rnds. BO in Rib patt.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

A – Chest circumference at underarm: 34.25[38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.25, 54.5, 57.5, 62.25, 66.25, 69.75] inches/87[98, 108, 118, 127, 138.5, 146, 158, 168.5, 177] cm
B – Underarm to hem length: 13[13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] inches/33[34.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5] cm
C – Total length hem to shoulder: 20[21.25, 22, 23, 24.25, 25.75, 26.75, 27.75, 28.5, 29.75] inches/51[54, 56, 58.5, 61.5, 65.5, 68, 70.5, 72.5, 75.5] cm
D – Sleeve circumference at upper arm: 12.5[12.5, 13.75, 15.75, 18.25, 19.75, 21, 22.75, 24.25, 24.5] inches/32[32, 35, 40, 46.5, 50, 53.5, 58, 61.5, 62] cm
E – Sleeve length: 17[17.5, 18.5, 18.75, 18.75, 18.75, 18.75, 18.75, 19.5, 19.5] inches/43[44.5, 47, 47.5, 47.5, 47.5, 47.5, 47.5, 49.5, 49.5] cm
F – Wrist circumference: 10.25[10.25, 11, 11.75, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12.25, 12.25] inches/26[26, 28, 30, 30.5, 30.5, 30.5, 30.5, 31, 31] cm
G – Neck Circumference: 17.75[17.75, 20.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 30.5, 33, 33] inches/45[45, 52, 64, 64, 64, 64, 77.5, 84, 84] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Merri lives in Saint Paul, Minnesota, where she spends her days doing a little bit of wellness coaching and a lot of dreaming about what she's going to knit next, while working on her current knitting project. As a resident of Minnesota, she feels knitting is a required life skill. She lives with her husband and the sweet but very needy cat, Quigley.

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2024 Merri Fromm