INTRODUCTION

Mer Bleue

by Elizabeth and Debbie Sullivan

Always up for a creative challenge, when Amy (Knitty's editor) approached us to see if we'd be interested in collaborating on an indigo-dyed sweater project, we immediately said "yes"!

After some brainstorming and several dye tests, we came up with the idea to dip the sweater in an indigo vat partway through the knitting process to create an asymmetric diagonal line. Because the water level in the indigo vat goes down slightly over time from taking the sweater in and out, there's a subtle gradient effect along the dip line which gives the dyeing an organic feel.

We chose a modified drop-shoulder with the dyeing part of the process in mind. The wider shoulder gives more room for error during the inexact dyeing process, so that the dip line is less likely to end up in an odd place (which would be more of a risk with a raglan or set-in sleeve).

Our aim was for a relaxed and cozy sweater with some positive ease. We included a few little design details that aid in getting a good fit. The sleeve shaping is worked towards the top of the sleeve instead of the bottom to allow the sleeves to follow the line of the shoulder and angle slightly downwards instead of straight out to the sides. Broken rib panels run down the sleeves and along the sides of the sweater, allowing for unobtrusive sleeve shaping and optional waist shaping.

We've provided a corresponding tutorial for the indigo dyeing technique we used, we hope you'll be inspired to create your own unique sweater.

model: Elizabeth Sullivan

photos: Debbie Sullivan

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S with 5 inches/12.5 cm of ease at chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  33.75[38, 42.5, 46.75, 50.25, 54.5, 58, 62.25, 66.5] inches/ 85.5[96.5, 108, 118.5, 127.5, 138.5, 147.5, 158, 169] cm
Length:  22.75[23, 23.5, 23.75, 24, 24.25, 24.5, 24.75, 25] inches/ 58[58.5, 59.5, 60.5, 61, 61.5, 62, 63, 63.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Sweet Paprika Designs Winfield [100% Canadian wool; 245 yd/224m per 4oz/110 g skein]; color: Natural; 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a worsted-weight 2-ply wool. The yarn is woolen-spun and is lofty with a toothy texture.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 32-inch/80-cm, for working body
1 set US #7/4.5mm dpns or small circumference circular needle, for working sleeves
US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 16-inch/40-cm, for working collar

Additional materials
See tutorial for additional materials for indigo dyeing.

Notions
stitch markers
stitch holders or smooth waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

18.5 sts/29 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: The body of this pullover is worked seamlessly in the round from the hem up to the underarm. There is a small amount of optional waist shaping. The body is then divided to work the upper back and front separately, then the shoulders are joined with a three-needle bind-off. Sleeves are picked up along armhole edges, knit back and forth a short amount to match the underarm bind-off, then joined in the round to knit down to the cuffs. After the left sleeve is knit, the piece is dipped on the diagonal in an indigo vat following the corresponding tutorial. The right undyed sleeve and neckband are knit last.

K1, p1 rib (worked in the rnd, multiple of 2 sts)
All rnds: * K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Broken Rib (worked in the rnd; multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Rnd 1: * K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-2 for pattern.

Broken Rib (worked flat, multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Row 1 (RS): * K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Rep Rows 1-2 for pattern.

DIRECTIONS

Body
With longer circular needle, cast on 156[176, 196, 216, 232, 252, 268, 288, 308] sts, pm and join for working in the round.
Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 2 inches/5 cm from cast-on edge, or desired length of rib.

Set up side panels:
Next rnd: * Work 9[11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts in Broken Rib, pm, work 69[77, 87, 95, 103, 111, 119, 127, 137] sts in St st, pm; rep from * once.

Work even in patterns as set until piece measures 5.25[5.25, 5.25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75] inches/ 13.5[13.5, 13.5, 14, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5] cm from beginning.

Waist shaping (optional):
Dec rnd: Work in Broken Rib to marker, slip m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, slip m; rep from * once. 4 sts decreased.
Work 10 rnds even.
Rep Dec rnd. 148[168, 188, 208, 224, 244, 260, 280, 300] sts rem.
Work 10 rnds even.
Inc rnd: Work in Broken Rib to marker, slip m, m1L, knit to next m, m1R, slip m; rep from * once. 4 sts increased.
Work 10 rnds even.
Rep Inc rnd. 156[176, 196, 216, 232, 252, 268, 288, 308] sts.

Work even until piece measures 15.5[15.5, 15.5, 15, 14.5, 14.25, 14, 13.75, 13.5] inches/ 39.5[39.5, 39.5, 38, 37, 36, 35.5, 35, 34.5] cm or desired length to underarm, ending last rnd 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] st(s) before marker.

Divide for front and back:
Bind off next 9[11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25] sts for left armhole (removing markers as you bind off), knit to next marker and place these 69[77, 85, 93, 99, 107, 113, 121, 129] sts on a holder or waste yarn for Front, bind off 9[11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25] sts for right armhole (removing markers as you bind off), knit to end of rnd. Turn to begin working back and forth on 69[77, 85, 93, 99, 107, 113, 121, 129] Back sts.

Upper Back
Work even in St st until piece measures 6.5[6.75, 7.25, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75] inches/ 16.5[17, 18.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5] cm from armhole, ending with a RS row.
Next row [WS]: P 30[34, 38, 41, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58] sts and place these sts on a holder or waste yarn for left neck and shoulder, bind off 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13] sts, purl to end of row. 30[34, 38, 41, 44, 48, 50, 54, 58] sts rem on needle.

Shape right back neck and shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Bind off 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, purl to last 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts, w&t. 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts rem.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: P 8[9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, w&t.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Purl across all sts, working wraps together with their sts.

Break yarn and leave 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts on holder to work three-needle bind-off at right shoulder later.

Shape left back neck and shoulder:
With RS facing, re-join yarn to work left shoulder sts from holder.
Row 1 [RS]: Bind off 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, knit to last 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts, w&t. 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts rem.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3: K 8[9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, w&t.
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit across all sts, working wraps together with their sts.

Break yarn and leave 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts on holder to work three-needle bind-off at right shoulder later.

Upper Front
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to work Front sts from holder.
Work even in St st until piece measures 3.75[4, 4.5, 5.25, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches/ 9.5[10, 11.5, 13.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5] cm from armhole, ending with a RS row.

Next row [WS]: P 31[35, 39, 42, 45, 49, 51, 55, 59] sts and place these sts on a holder or waste yarn for right neck and shoulder, bind off 7[7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] sts, purl to end of row. 31[35, 39, 42, 45, 49, 51, 55, 59] sts rem on needle.

Shape left neck:
BO 3 sts at beg of next 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] WS row(s), then BO 2 sts at beg of next 2[3, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 2, 2] WS rows, then BO 1 st at beg of following 2[1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2] WS row(s). 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts rem.
Work even in St st until piece measures measures 6.5[6.75, 7.25, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75] inches/ 16.5[17, 18.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5] cm from armhole or same as back to shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.

Shape left shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: Purl to last 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts, w&t.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Row 3: P 8[9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, w&t.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Purl across all sts, working wraps together with their sts.
Transfer left back shoulder sts to needles and with right sides together, work a three-needle bind-off to join shoulder seam.

Shape right neck:
With RS facing, re-join yarn to work right front sts from holder.
BO 3 sts at beg of next 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] RS row(s), then BO 2 sts at beg of next 2[3, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 2, 2] RS rows, then BO 1 st at beg of following 2[1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2] RS row(s). 22[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 44] sts rem.
Work even in St st until piece measures measures 6.5[6.75, 7.25, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75] inches/ 16.5[17, 18.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5] cm from armhole or same as back to shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape right shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: Knit to last 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts, w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3: K 8[9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, w&t.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit across all sts, working wraps together with their sts.
Transfer right back shoulder sts to needles and with right sides together, work a three-needle bind-off to join shoulder seam.

Left Sleeve
With RS facing and shorter circular needle, pick up and knit 61[63, 67, 75, 81, 87, 91, 95, 99] sts along left armhole edge, not including the sts bound off for the underarm. Purl 1 row.

Set up Broken Rib panel:
Next Row [RS]: *K 26[26, 28, 31, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41] , pm, (k1, p1) 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] times, k1, pm, k 26[26, 28, 31, 34, 36, 38, 39, 41] .
Keeping sts between markers in Broken Rib and the rest of the sts in St st, work even for 1[1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75] inches/ 2.5[3, 4, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 7] cm, ending with a RS row. Do not turn work, join for working in the rnd. At this point transfer sts to dpns, or a small circumference circular needle.
Work 3 rnds even in patterns as set.

Shape sleeve:
Dec rnd: Knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, work in Broken Rib to next marker, sm, k2tog, knit to end of rnd . 2 sts decreased.
Rep Dec rnd every 14[12, 10, 8, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4] rnds 8[9, 10, 13, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21] more times. 43[43, 45, 47, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55] sts rem.

Work even in pattern as established until Sleeve measures 17.5[17.5, 17.5, 17, 16.75, 16.25, 16.25, 16.25, 16.25] inches/ 44.5[44.5, 44.5, 43, 42.5, 41.5, 41.5, 41.5, 40.5] cm from beginning, or 2 inches/5 cm less than desired length.

Cuff:
Sizes XS[-, M, L, 1X, 2X, -, -, 5X] only:
Next Rnd: K2tog, * p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. 42[-, 44, 46, 46, 48, -, -, 54] sts rem.

Sizes -[S, -, -, -, -, 3X, 4X, -] only:
Next Rnd: * K1, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, p2tog. -[42, -, -, -, -, 50, 52, -] sts rem.

All sizes:
Continue in k1, p1 rib for 2 inches/5 cm. Bind off all sts in rib.

Sew left underarm seam.

Indigo Dip Dyeing
At this point, weave in ends so that they're not in the way and follow tutorial for dyeing your partially knit sweater.

Right Sleeve
Once dyeing is complete, work Right Sleeve as for Left Sleeve.

Neckband

With RS facing and shorter circular needle, starting at the right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 1 st for each bound off st and about 3 sts for every 4 rows along the sides of the neckline; approx. 74[78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98, 102, 106] sts around neck. The exact number of sts picked up is not important as long as it's divisible by two.

Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch/2.5cm. Bind off all sts loosely in rib.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Gently block sweater to measurements.

A – Chest circumference at underarm:  33.75[38, 42.5, 46.75, 50.25, 54.5, 58, 62.25, 66.5] inches/ 85.5[96.5, 108, 118.5, 127.5, 138.5, 147.5, 158, 169] cm
B – Waist circumference:  32[36.25, 40.75, 45, 48.5, 52.75, 56.25, 60.5, 64.75] inches/  81.5[92, 103.5, 114.5, 123, 134, 143, 153.5, 164.5] cm
C - Total length: 22.75[23, 23.5, 23.75, 24, 24.25, 24.5, 24.75, 25] inches/ 58[58.5, 59.5, 60.5, 61, 61.5, 62, 63, 63.5] cm
D – Length from hem to underarm: 15.5[15.5, 15.5, 15, 14.5, 14.25, 14, 13.75, 13.5] inches/ 39.5[39.5, 39.5, 38, 37, 36, 35.5, 35, 34.5] cm
E – Armhole depth:  6.5[6.75, 7.25, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75] inches/  16.5[17, 18.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5] cm
F – Shoulder and back neck drop: 0.75 inches/ 2 cm
G – Front neck depth: 3.5 inches/ 9 cm (before neckband is worked)
H – Back neck width:  5.5[5.75, 6.25, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.75] inches/  14[14.5, 16, 17, 18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 22] cm
I – Shoulder width:  4.75[5.5, 6, 6.75, 7.25, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9.5] inches/  12[14, 15, 17, 18.5, 19.5, 21, 22, 24] cm
J – Upper sleeve circumference:  13[13.5, 14.5, 16, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5] inches/  33[34, 37, 41, 44, 47, 50, 52, 55] cm
K – Cuff circumference:  9[9, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches/  23[23, 24, 25.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27.5, 28.5, 30] cm
L – Sleeve length:  19.5[19.5, 19.5, 19, 18.75, 18.25, 18.25, 18.25, 18] inches/  49.5[49.5, 49.5, 48.5, 47.5, 46.5, 46.5, 46.5, 45.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNERS

Elizabeth and Debbie Sullivan are sisters and co-owners of Sweet Paprika Designs, a Montreal-based business specializing in hand-dyed yarns, kits, and knitting and crochet patterns. Their grandmother got them started on their crafting journeys by teaching them to knit when they were kids, and they've never looked back. They've delved into crochet, dyeing, spinning and weaving and a variety of other fibre crafts along the way, and their business grew out of their shared passion for creating beautiful things with yarn.

You can find all of Sweet Paprika's yarns and patterns on their website and connect with them on Facebook or Instagram.

Pattern & images © 2024 Elizabeth and Debbie Sullivan