Neil’s tag line for this convertible project goes: It’s
a sweater, it’s a vest, it’s a swever! He
also suggested that the sleeves could make really neat matching
legwarmers.
A convertible project, Trout River can be a fitted vest
with stand-up collar or a sweater. The
sleeves can be buttoned on or taken off
depending on the temperature. All the hems are trimmed with
colorful handspun worked in garter stitch with the main yarn.
If
you don’t
spin I’ve
made a recommendation for a commercial
yarn that you could use. Because
the project uses less than 100 yards of
the trim yarn, you can really pick any
special fiber or skein that you want to
use in a garment but don’t
have enough of for the whole garment.
Gentle
shirt-tail shaping is included by working a
few short rows on the front and back just above the hemline.
There
are also short rows included in the bust shaping.
For a more conventional garment, you can work just the vest or
sew the sleeves on for a simple, warm sweater.
model: Becky
Herrick photos: Neil
Herrick
SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M; modeled with 1 inch
positive ease)
Fiber
[CC]
The Wool Shed [100% wensleydale; top];
color: rainbow; 2 ounces OR
[CC]
A Verb For Keeping Warm - wensleydale
[100% wensleydale; top];
color: Persimmon; 2 ounces
Finished Yarn:
Wraps
per inch: 11-12
Yardage
used: 66 yards
Drafting Method:
Long
draw creating a worsted spun yarn; Chain-ply
to maintain color sequence
Commercial alternative
[CC]
Mirasol Hacho [100% merino; 137yds/125m
per 50g skein]; color: #317 Fruity Pips;
1 skein
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
1
set US #6/4mm double-point needles
1 US #6/4mm circular needle; 24 inch for size XS, 24 or 32 inch for sizes
S-L, 32 or 40 inch for sizes 1X-3X
Spare circular needle, US #6/4mm or smaller
Spinning
Tool: 1.25 ounce drop spindle
Notions
2
small stitch holders
7 stitch markers: one marker should be a different type or color from the
others
4 split ring markers or safety pins
8 buttons, 0.5 inch diameter; buy buttons after sweater is complete to
ensure correct size
Yarn needle
GAUGE
20
sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette st
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
If you only want a vest, omit the armhole band buttonholes, and
don’t knit sleeves. If you only want a sweater, omit the
armhole band buttonholes, and work the sleeve cap button bands
to a depth of only 1 inch. When sewing in sleeves, align edge
of sleeve cap band with picked-up edge of armhole band (on inside
of armhole band).
Picking up sts:
When working the upper body and sleeve
caps, you will be instructed to slip the first st of
each row, resulting in one slipped st for every 2 rows.
When picking up sts along these edges, you will be instructed
to pick up and purl 3 sts for every 4 rows. This can
easily be done by working [p1 in first slipped st, pfb
in second slipped st] along these edges.
Armhole:
The sleeve cap edging is larger then
the armhole on the vest. The extra flare allows the edging
to cover the top of your shoulder, and keeps the overlap
in place without too much gaping.
RLI (Right Lifted Increase): Use the right needle to pick
up the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle.
Place it on the left needle, then knit into it. 1 stitch
has been increased.
LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick
up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right
needle. Knit into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.
Wrap & Turn [W&T] – used
when working short rows Note: The directions that follow
are written for short rows worked
in stockinette stitch.
To wrap and turn on a RS row,
knit to point specified in pattern,
bring yarn to front of work between
needles, slip next stitch to right-hand
needle, bring yarn around this stitch
to back of work, slip stitch back to
left-hand needle, turn work to begin
purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified
in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles,
slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around
this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand
needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other
direction.
Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
When working rows which follow short
rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points
of the short rows, together with the stitches they
wrap, as follows:
When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch.
Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use
tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place
it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap
and stitch, and knit them together.
When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch.
Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use
tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place
it on right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to
left needle, purl together through back loops.
DIRECTIONS
LOWER BODY
With circular needle and MC, using long tail cast on
method, CO 154[174, 194, 214, 234, 254, 274] sts. Place marker
to indicate beginning of round; use marker
which is different from the others.
Round 1: Using CC, k77[87, 97, 107, 117, 127, 137], place
marker to indicate side “seam”, k to end.
Round 2: Using MC, p all sts.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5,
5] times more.
Break CC. Using MC, k 1 round.
Optional Short Row Hem Shaping:
Working this sequence of short rows across
the front and back of the sweater will create a subtle,
flattering “shirttail” shape. Short rows
will first be worked across the front of the sweater,
and then across the back.
This shaping is not factored into the length measurements
given above or shown in the schematic; the shaping will
add 1[1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25] inches to the front
of the sweater, and 1.25[1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5]
inches to the back.
See Pattern Notes for information about working short
rows.
Front Short Rows: Short Row 1 [RS]: K to 5 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Row 2 [WS]: P to 5 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Row 3 [RS]: K to 5 sts before previous
wrapped st, W&T. Short Row 4 [RS]: P to 5 sts before previous
wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 3-4 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2] times
more.
K to side marker, working wraps together
with wrapped sts.
Back Short Rows:
Work Short Rows 1-4 as for front.
RepeatShort Rows 3-4 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3] times more. K
to end of round, working wraps together with wrapped sts.
When working following round, work remaining wraps together
with wrapped sts.
Important: From this point on, measure length
of lower body at side edge, measuring straight up from
end-of-round marker.
Work in stockinette st until work measures 2.5[2.5, 3,
3, 3, 3, 3] inches. Note: As written, lower body measures
14.5[14.5, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches to underarm. If you
wish to lengthen or shorten the sweater, work more or fewer
rounds at this point. Length may also be altered during
waist shaping.
Shape Waist: Waist Decrease Round: [K1, k2tog, k to 3
sts before marker, ssk, k1] twice. 150[170, 190, 210,
230, 250, 270] sts.
K 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds 6 times more, then
work Waist Decrease Round once more. 122[142, 162, 182,
202, 222, 242] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 9.5[9.5,
10, 10, 10, 10, 10] inches. Note: If you wish to lengthen or shorten
the sweater, work more or fewer rounds at this point.
Waist Increase Round: [K1, RLI, k to 1 st before marker,
LLI, k1] twice. 126[146, 166, 186, 206, 226, 246] sts.
K 2 rounds.
Repeat these 3 rounds 4 times more, then
work Waist Increase Round once more.
146[166, 186, 206, 226, 246, 266] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.5[12.5,
13, 13, 13, 13, 13] inches, or 2 inches less than desired
length to underarm.
Optional Short Row Bust Shaping:
Working this sequence of short rows across
the front of the sweater will add approx. 0.5[0.5, 1,
1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25] inches of length over the bust,
to help the sweater hang correctly. If you have a very
small bust, you may wish to omit these short rows. If
you have a very large bust, you may wish to work a few
extra short rows.
Short Row 1 [RS]: K to 8 sts before marker, W&T. Short Row 2 [WS]: P to 8 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Row 3 [RS]: K to 5 sts before previous
wrapped st, W&T. Short Row 4 [RS]: P to 5 sts before previous
wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 3-4 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times
more.
K to end of round, working wraps together
with wrapped sts. When working following round, work remaining
wraps together with wrapped sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 14.5[14.5,
15, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches or desired length to underarm,
ending last round 2[2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 6] sts before end-of-round
marker.
Removing markers, divide work for upper front and back
as follows: Next Round: BO 4[4, 6, 8, 8, 10, 12]
sts, k to 2[2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 6] sts before side marker, BO
4[4, 6, 8, 8, 10, 12] sts, k to end. Two sets of 69[79,
87, 95, 105, 113, 121] sts. Place first set of sts on hold
on spare circular needle for upper front; upper back will
be worked back and forth over last set of sts (set of sts
with yarn attached).
UPPER BACK
From this point on, on RS rows, slip first st
knitwise with yarn held to back of work. On WS rows, slip
first st purlwise with yarn held to front of work.
P 1 row. Armhole Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk,
k to 3 sts before edge, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4,
4] times more. 63[73, 79, 87, 97, 103, 111] sts.
Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Work Armhole
Decrease Row.
Repeat these 4 rows -[-, 0, 0, 2, 2,
3] times more. -[-, 77, 85, 91, 97, 103] sts.
All Sizes:
Continue in stockinette st until work
measures 6.5[6.75, 6.75, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5] inches from
underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Back Neckline: Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k21[24, 25, 26, 27,
28, 29], BO 19[23, 25, 31, 35, 39, 43] sts, k to end.
Two sets of 22[25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30] sts. Place first
set of sts on small st holder for right back shoulder;
left back shoulder will be worked over last set of sts
(set of sts with yarn attached).
Left Back Neckline and Shoulder:
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 3, 4, 5, 5,
6] times more. 19[21, 22, 22, 22, 23, 23] sts.
P 1 row.
Shoulder slope is shaped using short rows as follows,
beginning with RS facing:
Sl 1, k13[15, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17], W&T. P to end.
Sl 1, k9[11, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13], W&T. P to end.
Sl 1, k5[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9], W&T. P to end.
Sl 1, k to end, working wraps together
with wrapped sts.
BO all sts purlwise.
Right Back Neckline and Shoulder:
Place held sts of right shoulder on needle
and join yarn with RS facing.
K 1 row. Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p2tog, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 3, 4, 5, 5,
6] times more. 19[21, 22, 22, 22, 23, 23] sts.
K 1 row. Work short rows as follows, beginning with WS
facing:
Sl 1, p13[15, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17], W&T. K to end.
Sl 1, p9[11, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13], W&T. K to end.
Sl 1, p5[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9], W&T. K to end.
Sl 1, p to end, working wraps together
with wrapped sts.
BO all sts knitwise.
UPPER FRONT Place held sts of upper front on needle and join yarn
with WS facing.
Work armhole shaping as for upper back.
Once all decreases have been worked, continue in stockinette
st until work measures 2.5[2.75, 2.75, 3, 3.75, 4.25, 4.5]
inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Neckline: Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k28[33, 35, 39,
42, 45, 48], k2tog, k1; place remaining 31[36, 38, 42,
45, 48, 51] sts on st holder for upper right front. 31[36,
38, 42, 45, 48, 51] sts on needle.
P 1 row. Note: There will be one more decrease
on the left front neckline than on the right front neckline,
to compensate for the odd number of sts.
Upper Left Front: Left Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1,
k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 28[33,
35, 39, 42, 45, 48] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 4 inches
from beginning of neckline shaping, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: BO 7[8, 9, 12, 14, 16,
18] sts, p to end. 21[25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30] sts.
Work Left Neckline Decrease Row. P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[3, 3, 4, 5, 5,
6] times more. 19[21, 22, 22, 22, 23, 23] sts.
K 1 row. Work short rows and bind off as for right back
shoulder.
Upper Right Front:
Place held sts of upper right front on
needle and join yarn with RS facing.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Right Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, k to end.
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 28[33,
35, 39, 42, 45, 48] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 4 inches
from beginning of neckline shaping, ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: BO 7[8, 9, 12, 14, 16,
18] sts, k to end. 21[25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30] sts.
P 1 row. Work Right Neckline Decrease Row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[3, 3, 4, 5, 5,
6] times more. 19[21, 22, 22, 22, 23, 23] sts.
P 1 row. Work short rows and bind off as for left back
shoulder.
COLLAR
Sew shoulder seams.
When working collar, break yarn at end of each round,
and join at beginning of each new round. This will result
in quite a few ends to weave in, but it is the best way
to manage both the color and shaping within the collar.
Each end can be woven in on WS along row of same color.
Collar may be worked using either double-point or circular
needles. At beginning and end of each row, several sts
will be slipped to a st holder; use 1 st holder for each
side of front neckline. See Pattern Notes for notes on
picking up sts along edges with slipped sts.
Although rounds are not joined, all rounds of collar are
worked with RS facing.
Using CC, with RS facing, beginning at base of collar
slit, pick up and p sts around collar and place markers
as follows: 3 sts for every 4 rows along vertical collar
slit edge on right front, place marker; 1 st in each bound
off st along right front collar shaping, place marker;
3 sts for every 4 rows along shaped vertical edge of collar
to beginning of bound off back collar sts, place marker;
1 st in each bound off back collar st, place marker; 3
sts for every 4 rows along shaped vertical edge of collar
to beginning of bound off left front collar sts, place
marker; 1 st in each bound off st along left front collar
shaping, place marker; 3 sts for every 4 rows along vertical
collar slit edge on left front. 6 markers in place.
Round 1: Beginning at center front, slip first 3 sts to
st holder; using MC, k to 1 st before first marker, RLI,
k1, slip marker, LLI, [k to next marker, slip marker, ssk,
k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, slip marker] twice,
k to next marker, RLI, slip marker, k1, LLI, k to last
3 sts, slip last 3 sts to st holder. Round 2: Slip first 3 sts to st holder;
using CC, p to last 3 sts, slip last 3 sts to st holder. Rounds 3-4: Work as for Rounds 1-2. Round 5: Slip first 2 sts to st holder;
work as for Round 1 to last 2 sts, slip last 2 sts to st
holder. Round 6: Slip first 2 sts to st holder;
using CC, p to last 3 sts, slip last 2 sts to st holder. Rounds 7-8: Work as for Rounds 5-6.
Place held sts from first holder on needle at beginning
of round, and held sts from second holder on needle at
end of round. Join MC at center front.
BO Round: Using MC, BO all sts purlwise; while binding
off, continue to work increases at first and last marker
as set, except purl increased sts instead of knitting them.
ARMHOLE EDGING / BUTTONHOLE BANDS Referring to photos as guides, use safety pins or split
ring markers to mark positions of two buttonholes each
on front and back of one armhole, approx. 1.75[2, 2, 2,
2.5, 2.5, 2.5] inches apart.
Using double-point needles and CC, beginning at center
of BO underarm edge, pick up and p sts around armhole as
follows: 1 st in each bound off st; 3 sts for every 4 rows
along armhole edge to 1 inch before shoulder seam; 1 st
for every 2 rows (1 st in each slipped st) to 1 inch past
shoulder seam; 3 sts for every 4 rows along armhole edge
to BO underarm edge; 1 st in each bound off st to center
of underarm edge. Place marker and join to work in the
round.
Round 1: Using MC, k all sts. Round 2: Using CC, p all sts. Round 3: Using MC, [k to 1 st before
buttonhole position, BO 2 sts] four times, k to end. Round 4: Using CC, [p to set of bound-off
sts, CO 2 sts] four times, p to end. Rounds 5-8: Work as for Rounds 1-2.
Using MC, BO all sts purlwise.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Cuff:
Using double-point needles and MC, CO
36[38, 40, 44, 46, 50, 52] sts.
Join to begin working in the round, being
careful not to twist.
Round 1: Using CC, k all sts. Round 2: Using MC, p all sts.
Repeat these 2 rounds 4 times more. Break
CC.
Work in stockinette st until work measures 2 inches.
Increase Round: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1.
K 7[7, 6, 6, 5, 5, 4] rounds.
Repeat these 8[8, 7, 7, 6, 6, 5] rounds
11[12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18] times more. 60[64, 70,
74, 80, 84, 90] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 18 inches
or desired length to underarm, ending last round 2[2, 3,
4, 4, 5, 6] sts before end of round. Place next 4[4, 6,
8, 8, 10, 12] sts on st holder, removing marker. 56[60,
64, 66, 72, 74, 78] sts.
Sleeve cap is worked back and forth in rows. From this
point on, slip first st of each row as for upper back and
front.
P 1 row. Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, k to last
3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 24[26, 28, 29, 32,
33, 35] times more. 6 sts.
P 1 WS row, then p 1 RS row; do not turn work at end of
RS row.
Sleeve Cap Edging / Button Band:
Continuing from sts just worked, pick
up and p 3 sts for every 4 rows along side edge of sleeve
cap, p held underarm sts, pick up and p 3 sts for every
4 rows along side edge of sleeve cap, place marker and
join to work in the round.
Work in garter st until band measures 1.75 inches. BO
all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired.
For each sleeve, insert sleeve cap edging into armhole
edging, lining up shoulders and underarms. Use safety
pins or split ring markers to mark positions of buttons
on sleeve cap edgings, behind buttonholes. Sew buttons
in place.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Becky lives in Lamoille county in Vermont with her husband Neil
and a growing number of farm animals. In the summers she’ll
take her knitting on any outdoor adventures possible, canoeing,
camping, even mountain climbing! Becky can be found knitting
and designing on the bus to her real job every day.
She blogs here.
And
she can be found on Ravelry as BeckyinVT.