Mahakam, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a unisex round neck cabled pullover.

INTRODUCTION

Mahakam

by Rachel Brockman

Tangy

Mahakam is named after the mountainous region from the world of one of my favorite fantasy books, where dwarves live and thrive. Although I imagine the dwarves are more likely to sport attire of armor and leather, I can imagine few things better than a cozy wool sweater to wear deep in the rugged mountains. Still, the rich, coal-color of this sweater conjures images of mining and metallurgy – two things undoubtedly associated with dwarves.

Knit in Universal Yarn's Deluxe Worsted – a stash staple – this sweater features slip-stitch cables throughout the body and sleeves. Ribbing highlights the lines of the raglan shaping, and the neck is wide enough to comfortably layer your favorite flannel underneath. Choose the size closest to your actual chest measurement for a more tailored fit or bump up a size for a more relaxed look. This is a timeless piece sure to endure the test of time. Can you imagine a more suitable autumn sweater?

spacer model: John Mojecki, Michael Spitler

spacer photos: Rachel Brockman

SIZE

S[M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in 2X size, modeled with 6.5 inches / 16.5 cm ease on John above;
shown in 2X size, modeled with 0 inches / 0 cm ease on Michael below

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 36.5[40.75, 44.25, 48.5, 52.5, 56.5, 60.5, 64.5] inches / 92.5[103.5, 112.5, 124, 133.5, 143.5, 153.5, 164] cm
Length: 24[24.5, 25.25, 26.25, 26.5, 27.75, 28.5, 29] inches / 61[62, 64, 66.5, 67.5, 70.5, 72.5, 73.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted [100% wool; 220 yds/200 m per 100g]; color: 12172 Dark Crystal: 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #8/5mm straight or your preferred needle for knitting flat
US #7/4.5mm straight or your preferred needle for knitting flat
US #7/4.5mm 16 inch/40 cm circular (for Neck Edging)

Notions
removable stitch markers
stitch markers
cable needle
yarn needle

GAUGE

16 sts & 26 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in Reverse Stockinette Stitch with larger needles
23 sts & 28 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in Alternating Slips with larger needles
23 sts & 28 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in Slip Columns Panel with larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater is knit flat in pieces from the bottom up and seamed. After assembling the body, neck stitches are picked up and worked in the round.

Work all slipped stitches purlwise with yarn held in back on RS rows and with yarn held in front on WS rows.

1x2 Right Cross (RC):
Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k1 from left needle, k2 from cn.

1x2 Left Cross (LC):
Slip 1 sts to cn and hold in front, k2 from left needle, k1 from cn.

Alternating Slips Pattern:
Multiple of 4 sts, plus 5
Row 1 [RS]: *K1, sl 1 wyib, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P3, sl 1 wyif, p1, *p2, sl 1 wyif, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: *K1, 1x2 LC; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K3, *k2, sl 1 wyib, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: P2, *p1, sl 1 wyif, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 7: K3, *1x2 RC, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 8: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Slip Columns Panel
Row 1 (RS): (P2, sl 1, k5, sl 1, p2, k2, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k2) 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times, p2, sl 1, k5, sl 1, p2. ( 29[29, 29, 29, 29, 47, 47, 47] sts)
Row 2 (WS): (K2, sl 1, p5, sl 1, k2, p2, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p2) 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times, k2, sl 1, p5, sl 1, k2.
Row 3: (P2, 1x2 LC, k1, 1x2 RC, p2, 1x2 RC, k1, 1x2 LC) 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times, p2, 1x2 LC, k1, 1x2 RC, p2.
Row 4: (K2, p7) 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] times, k2.
Rep Rows 1-4 for patt.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Back
Hem
With smaller needle, CO 103[113, 121, 131, 141, 161, 169, 177] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.

Rep Rows 1-2 until piece measures 2 inches / 5 cm from cast-on edge, ending after a RS row. Change to larger needle.

Body
Set-up row [WS]: P1, k 5[8, 10, 13, 14, 6, 10, 14] , pm, (k2, p7) 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] times, k2, pm, p 33[37, 41, 45, 53, 53, 53, 53] , pm, (k2, p7) 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] times, k2, pm, k 5[8, 10, 13, 14, 6, 10, 14] , p1.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, purl to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Slip Columns Panel to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Alternating Slips to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Slip Columns Panel to m, sl m, purl to m, k1.
Row 2: P1, knit to m, sl m, work next row of Slip Columns Panel to m, sl m, work next row of Alternating Slips to m, sl m, work next row of Slip Columns Panel to m, sl m, knit to last st, p1.

Rows 1-2 establish patt. Cont as est, continuously repeating Rows 1-4 of Slip Columns Panel and Rows 1-8 of Alternating Slips patt, until piece measures 16[16, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17] inches / 40.5[40.5, 40.5, 42, 42, 42, 43, 43] cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Raglan Shaping
Note: Maintain pattern as established throughout raglan shaping. If there are not enough stitches to complete a left cross or right cross, work these stitches in Stockinette stitch instead.

Bind off 4[5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 11, 13] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 95[103, 111, 117, 127, 143, 147, 151] sts rem.
Row 1 [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, pm, k1, cont as est to last 5 sts, k1, pm, (p1, k1) twice.
Row 2 [WS]: (P1, k1) twice, sl m, p1, cont as est to 1 st bef last m p1, sl m, (k1, p1) twice.

Working rows as outlined below, starting with a RS Dec row, work a Dec row every 4 rows 9[7, 6, 5, 3, -, -, -] times total; work a Dec row every 2 rows, 10[16, 20, 24, 29, 34, 36, 39] times and every row -[-, -, -, -, 6, 4, 4] times. When shaping is complete, 57[57, 59, 59, 63, 63, 65, 65] sts rem. Bind off all sts.

Dec row [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, sl m, ssk, cont as est to 2 sts bef last m, k2tog, sl m, (p1, k1) twice. 2 sts dec,
Dec row [WS]: (P1, k1) twice, sl m, ssp, cont as est'd to 2 sts bef last m, p2tog, sl m, (k1, p1) twice. 2 sts dec.

Even row [WS]: (P1, k1) twice, sl m, p1, cont as est to 1 st bef last m, p1, sl m, (k1, p1) twice.
Even row [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, sl m, k1, cont as est to 1 st bef last m, k1, sl m, (p1, k1) twice.

Front
Work as for Back to Raglan Shaping.

Note 1: Maintain pattern as established throughout raglan shaping. If there are not enough stitches to complete a left cross or right cross, work these stitches in Stockinette stitch instead.
Note 2: Read through entire section before proceeding. Raglan shaping and neck shaping occur at the same time.
Note 3: When neck shaping begins, you will work both the Left and Right Front at the same time using two separate balls of yarn.

Bind off 4[5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 11, 13] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 95[103, 111, 117, 127, 143, 147, 151] sts rem.
Row 1 [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, pm, k1, cont as est to last 5 sts, k1, pm, (p1, k1) twice.
Row 2 [WS]: (P1, k1) twice, sl m, p1, cont as est to 1 st bef last m, p1, sl m, (k1, p1) twice.

At the same time, when piece measures 5.25[5.75, 6.5, 7, 6.75, 7.25, 8, 8.5] inches/ 13.5[14.5, 16.5, 18, 17, 18.5, 20.5, 21.5] cm from underarm bind-off, shape Front Neck as follows:

Shape Front Neck
Note 1: Place removable markers on each side of center 17[17, 19, 19, 23, 23, 25, 25] sts.
Note 2: Continue raglan shaping at the same time as neck shaping.

Row 1 [RS]: Cont as est over Left Front sts to first removable marker, join a new ball of yarn and bind off center 17[17, 19, 19, 23, 23, 25, 25] sts, cont as est over Right Front sts to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Cont as est over Right Front sts, bind off 3 Left Front sts, cont as est to end.
Row 3: Cont as est over Left Front sts, bind off 3 Right Front sts, cont as est to end.
Rows 4-5: Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 6: Cont as est over Right Front sts, bind off 2 Left Front sts, cont as est to end.
Row 7: Cont as est over Left Front sts, bind off 2 Right Front sts, cont as est to end.
Rows 8-13: Rep Rows 6-7, 3 times more.
Row 14: Cont as est over Right Front sts, bind off 1 Left Front st, cont as est to end.
Row 15: Cont as est over Left Front sts, bind off 1 Right Front st, cont as est to end.
Rows 16-17: Rep Rows 14-15.
Cont as est throughout the remainder of Raglan Shaping.

After all Neck and Raglan shaping are complete, 4 sts rem for each Left and Right Front. Bind off rem sts.

Sleeves
Cuff
With smaller needle, CO 43[43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51, 51] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.

Rep Rows 1-2 until piece measures 2 inches / 5 cm from cast-on edge, ending after a RS row. Change to larger needle.

Sleeve Body
Set-up row [WS]: P1, k 6[6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10] , pm, [k2, p7] 3 times, k2, pm, k 6[6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10] , p1.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, purl to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Slip Columns Sleeve Pattern to m, sl m, purl to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, knit to m, sl m, work next row of Slip Columns Sleeve Pattern to m, sl m, knit to last st, p1.

Rows 1-2 establish patt. Cont as est, continuously repeating Rows 1-4 of Slip Columns Sleeve Pattern, until piece measures 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Shaping
Note: Maintain increased stitches in Reverse Stockinette Stitch.
Working rows as outlined below, starting with a RS Inc row, work an Inc row every 8[6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 11[7, 11, 8, 9, 12, 15, 18] times and every 10[8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows, 1[7, 4, 11, 11, 9, 7, 5] time(s). 67[71, 77, 85, 91, 93, 95, 97] sts.

Once shaping is complete, work even as est until Sleeve measures 18.5[18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19, 19] inches / 47[47, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5] cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Inc row [RS]: K1, p1, m1p, purl to m, sl m, work next row of Slip Columns Sleeve Pattern to m, sl m, purl to last 2 sts, m1p, k1 – 2 sts inc'd.
Even row [WS]: Cont as est to end.
Even row [RS]: Cont as est to end.

Raglan Shaping
Note: Maintain pattern as established throughout raglan shaping. If there are not enough stitches to complete a left cross or right cross, work these stitches in Stockinette stitch instead.
Bind off 4[5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 11, 13] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 59[61, 67, 71, 77, 75, 73, 71] sts rem.
Row 1 [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, pm, k1, cont as est to last 5 sts, k1, pm, (p1, k1) twice.
Row 2 [WS]: (P1, k1) twice, sl m, p1, cont as est to 1 st bef last m, p1, sl m, (k1, p1) twice.

Working rows as outlined below, starting with a RS dec row, work a dec row every 4 rows, 5[6, 5, 5, 3, 6, 9, 12] times and every 2 rows, 18[18, 22, 24, 29, 25, 21, 17] times. 13 sts rem. Bind off all sts.

Dec row [RS]: (K1, p1) twice, sl m, ssk, cont as est to 2 sts bef last m, k2tog, sl m, (p1, k1) twice – 2 sts dec'd.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt as set.
Even row [RS]: Work even in patt as set.

FINISHING

Soak finished pieces in cool water with a bit of soap, if desired. Remove from water, place on a towel, and roll the towel up to absorb the excess water. Unroll towel and place on a flat surface, patting it into shape. Let dry.
Sew Raglan seams. Sew Sleeve and side seams. Weave in ends.

Neck Edging
With smaller circular needle, RS facing, and beg at Right shoulder, pick up and knit 132[132, 136, 136, 150, 150, 154, 154] sts evenly around neck edge. PM and join in the rnd.

Ribbing: (K1, p1) around.
Work ribbing as set for 1.5[1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.75, 1.75, 1.75, 1.75] inches / 4[4, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5] cm. Bind off all sts in patt. Weave in rem ends.

Front/Back Width: 18.75[21, 22.5, 24.75, 26.75, 29.25, 31.25, 33.25] inches / 47.5[53.5, 57, 63, 68, 74.5, 79.5, 84.5] cm
Length from Hem to Underarm: 16[16, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17] inches / 40.5[40.5, 40.5, 42, 42, 42, 43, 43] cm
Raglan Depth: 8.25[8.75, 9.5, 10, 10.25, 10.75, 11.5, 12] inches / 21[22, 24, 25.5, 26, 27.5, 29, 30.5] cm
Total Body Length: 24[24.5, 25.25, 26.25, 26.5, 27.75, 28.5, 29] inches / 61[62, 64, 66.5, 67.5, 70.5, 72.5, 73.5] cm
Front Neck Drop: 3[3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5] inches / 7.5[7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9, 9, 9, 9] cm
Back Neck Width: 10[10, 10.25, 10.25, 11, 11, 11.25, 11.25] inches / 25.5[25.5, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28.5, 28.5] cm
Cuff: 8.5[8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5] inches / 21.5[21.5, 24, 24, 26.5, 26.5, 26.5, 26.5] cm
Upper Arm: 14.5[15.5, 17, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22] inches / 37[39.5, 43, 48.5, 52, 53.5, 54.5, 56] cm
Sleeve Length from Cuff to Underarm: 18.5[18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19, 19] inches / 47[47, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5] cm
Sleeve Top Width: 2.25 inches / 5.5 cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Rachel Brockman is a creative lead for Universal Yarn and also designs independently. When she isn't knitting, she's probably playing with her pups, climbing, or watching John Carpenter's The Thing for the millionth time with her husband.

You can find her on Ravelry as Racheleilei and Instagram as rachbrocknits.