INTRODUCTION

Perchta

by Alison Green

I've always been extremely fond of fancy cables and saddle shoulders, ever since the earliest days of my knitting obsession, when I was a college student and found Alice Starmore's classic book Aran Knitting. As a young knitter in the mid-1990s, there weren't many other knitters my age so I largely learned knitting techniques from books. The great thing about learning this way was that I didn't have anyone telling me that cables (or stranded colorwork, or lace) was hard, so I fearlessly dove into Ms. Starmore's world of beautifully intertwining Celtic knots.

This cardigan marries traditional cable patterns with mostly-seamless construction techniques that many knitters favor today; the only seaming required is joining the saddles to the shoulders. It is worked from the bottom up, with the body and sleeves worked separately, then joined for the yoke. After the shoulders are bound off, the cable panels from the sleeves are continued for a few inches, which become the decorative shoulder saddles. These saddles are seamed to the shoulders on the front and back, and then a generous garter stitch collar is worked.

model: Alison Green

photos: Gale Zucker

SIZE

For women's garments: XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size M with 4 inches/10 cm of ease


FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust (closed):  36.5[41, 45.5, 50, 54.5, 59, 63.5, 68, 72.5] inches/ 92.5[104, 115.5, 127, 138.5, 150, 161.5, 172.5, 184] cm
Length:  19.75[20.5, 20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.25, 22.75, 23.25, 23.75] inches/ 50[52, 52.5, 54, 55.5, 56.5, 58, 59, 60.5] cm

Note: Collar overlaps approximately 2.5 inches/6.5 cm. Bust measurement listed takes the overlap into account.

MATERIALS

Yarn
Berroco Arno [57% Cotton, 43% Merino Wool; 159 yd/145 m per 1.75 oz/50 g skein]; color: #5060 Sangria; 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
One 7 US/4.5mm circular needle, 32-inch/80-cm length
One set US 7 US/4.5mm double-pointed needles (or preferred needle for working small circumferences in the round

Notions
cable needle, yarn needle, stitch markers (ideally in two colors), waste yarn to hold stitches

GAUGE

20 sts and 30 rows/rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
48 sts of Back Panel Chart = 8 inches/20.5 cm
20 sts of Front and Sleeve Charts = 3.5 inches/9 cm

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The body is worked in one piece from the bottom up to the underarm, and sleeves are worked in the round to the underarm. Body and sleeves are joined, and yoke is worked in one piece to the shoulders. Sleeve saddles are worked and sewn to the shoulder seams, then the collar is picked up and knit.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Body
With circular needle, cast on 188[216, 244, 272, 300, 328, 356, 384, 412] sts. Work from Hem/Front Panel Chart, repeating the 14-st pattern rep 13[15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29] times across.

Work Rows 1-4 of Hem/Front Panel Chart 8 times total, then work Rows 1-3 once more.

Next Row [RS]: Work Row 2 of Hem/Front Panel Chart over 20 sts, pm, [k2, k2tog] 5[6, 7, 3, 4, 5, 6, 2, 3] times, [k3, k2tog] 6[8, 10, 16, 18, 20, 22, 28, 30] times, pm, work Set-Up Row 1 of Back Panel Chart over 48 sts, pm, [k3, k2tog] 6[8, 10, 16, 18, 20, 22, 28, 30] times, [k2, k2tog] 5[6, 7, 3, 4, 5, 6, 2, 3] times , pm, work Row 2 of Hem/Front Panel Chart over last 20 sts. 166[188, 210, 234, 256, 278, 300, 324, 346] sts. There are 39[50, 61, 73, 84, 95, 106, 118, 129] sts in St st between each Front Panel and the Back panel.
Next Row [WS]: Work in pattern as established to marker, sm, purl to next marker, sm, work Row 2 of Back Panel over 48 sts, sm, purl to next marker, sm, work in pattern as established to end.

Continue in patterns as established, repeating Rows 1-20 of Back Panel Chart, and Rows 1-4 of Hem/Front Panel Chart, and working in St st between markers, until piece measures 12.5 inches/32 cm or desired length to underarm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Set aside while working Sleeves.

Sleeves
With dpns (or preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round), cast on 56 sts. Work from Sleeve Cuff Chart, repeating the 14-st pattern rep 4 times around. Work Rnds 1-4 of Chart 8 times total, then work Rnds 1-3 once more.

Next Rnd: K2, [k2tog, k2] 4 times, k2, pm, work Set-Up Rnd of Sleeve Panel Chart over 20 sts, k2, [ssk, k2] 4 times. 48 sts.
Next Rnd: Knit to marker, sm, work Rnd 1 of Sleeve Panel Chart over 20 sts, sm, knit to end.

Work even in patterns as established, repeating Rows 1-20 of Sleeve Panel Chart between markers and working in St st over all other sts, for 1 inches/2.5 cm.

Inc Rnd: K1, M1L, work in patterns to last st, M1R, k1. 2 sts increased.
Repeat Inc Rnd every 15th[10th, 9th, 7th, 6th, 5th, 5th, 4th, 4th] rnd 4[7, 0, 4, 8, 12, 4, 19, 16] more times, then every 14th[9th, 8th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 4th, 3rd, 3rd] rnd 2[2, 11, 10, 8, 7, 17, 4, 8] more times. 62[68, 72, 78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 98] sts.

Work even in patterns until sleeve measures 18 inches/46 cm, or to desired sleeve length, ending the last rnd 4[6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16] sts before end of rnd. Place next 8[12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 24, 28, 32] sts on waste yarn for underarm, removing marker, then place remaining 54[56, 58, 62, 62, 64, 68, 68, 66] on a separate piece of waste yarn for Yoke.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Yoke
Note: When placing shaping markers on next row, use a different color marker from the markers that indicate the cable panels.

Joining row [RS]: Work in pattern across 29[33, 37, 42, 46, 49, 55, 59, 62] Right Front sts, place next 8[12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 24, 28, 32] sts on waste yarn for underarm, place shaping marker, work in pattern across 54[56, 58, 62, 62, 64, 68, 68, 66] Sleeve sts, place shaping marker, work in pattern across 92[98, 108, 118, 124, 132, 142, 150, 158] Back sts, place next 8[12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 24, 28, 32] sts on waste yarn for underarm, place shaping marker, work in pattern across 54[56, 58, 62, 62, 64, 68, 68, 66] Sleeve sts, place shaping marker, work in pattern across remaining 29[33, 37, 42, 46, 49, 55, 59, 62] Left Front sts. 258[276, 298, 326, 340, 358, 388, 404, 414] sts total for yoke.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.

Neck, Body and Sleeves Dec Row [RS]: Work to first (cable panel) marker, sm, ssk, *work to 3 sts before shaping marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times, work to 2 sts before last (cable panel) marker, k2tog, sm, work to end. 10 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patterns established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 2 rows 0[1, 0, 2, 3, 2, 4, 4, 3] more times. 248[256, 288, 296, 300, 328, 338, 354, 374] sts; 27[29, 35, 36, 38, 43, 45, 49, 54] for each Front, 52[52, 56, 56, 54, 58, 58, 58, 58] for each Sleeve, and 90[94, 106, 112, 116, 126, 132, 140, 150] for Back.

Body and Sleeves Dec Row [RS]: *Work to 3 sts before shaping marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. 8 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 2 rows 5[6, 10, 11, 8, 9, 9, 7, 4] more times. 200[200, 200, 200, 228, 248, 258, 290, 334] sts; 21[22, 24, 24, 29, 33, 35, 41, 49] for each Front, 40[38, 34, 32, 36, 38, 38, 42, 48] for each Sleeve, and 78[80, 84, 88, 98, 106, 112, 124, 140] for Back.

Sizes XS[S, M] only:
Sleeves-Only Dec Row [RS]: *Work to shaping marker, sm, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before shaping marker, SSK, k1, sm; rep from * once more, work to end. 4 sts decreased (in Sleeve sections only).
Next row [WS]: Work even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4[2, 0, -, -, -, -, -, -] more times. 180[188, 196, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts; 30[32, 32, -, -, -, -, -, -] for each Sleeve; Front and Back st counts are unchanged.

Sizes 1X [2XL, 3XL] only:
Work Body and Sleeves Dec Row.
Work 3 rows even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 4 rows -[-, -, -, 3, 5, 7, -, -] more times. -[-, -, -, 196, 200, 194, -, -] sts; -[-, -, -, 25, 27, 27, -, -] for each Front, -[-, -, -, 28, 26, 22, -, -] for each Sleeve, and -[-, -, -, 90, 94, 96, -, -] sts for Back.

Sizes XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2XL] only:
Sleeves-Only Dec Row [RS]: *Work to shaping marker, sm, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before shaping marker, ssk, k1, sm; rep from * once more, work to end. 4 sts decreased (in Sleeve sections only).
Work 3 rows even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 4 rows 3[4, 4, 4, 2, 1, -, -, -] more times. 164[168, 176, 180, 184, 192, -, -, -] sts; 22 sts for each Sleeve; Front and Back st counts are unchanged.

Sizes 4XL[5XL] only:
Body-Only Dec Row [RS]: Work to 3 sts before shaping marker, ssk, k1, sm, work to next shaping marker, sm, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before shaping marker, ssk, k1, sm, work to end. 4 sts decreased (in Body sections only).
Work one WS row even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Work Body and Sleeves Dec Row.
Work one WS row even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 4 rows -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 6] more times. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 254, 250] sts; -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 35, 35] sts for each Front, -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 36, 34] sts for each Sleeve, and -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 112, 112] sts for Back.

Next row [RS]: Work Body and Sleeves Dec Row.
Work 3 rows even in patterns as established, slipping all markers.
Repeat the last 4 rows -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 6, 5] more times. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 198, 202] sts; -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 28, 29] sts for each Front, -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 22, 22] sts for each Sleeve, and -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 98, 100] sts for Back.

ALL SIZES continue here:
Note: in the next row, when binding off over the cable panels, knit or purl the sts as they face you, and work the decreases called for during the bind off by working k2tog or p2tog while binding off the sts.

Next row [RS]: Bind off 21[22, 24, 24, 25, 27, 27, 28, 29] Front sts, decreasing 1 st in center of cable panel, remove marker, work in pattern across 22 sts for Sleeve (right shoulder saddle), remove marker, bind off 78[80, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 98, 100] Back sts, decreasing 6 sts evenly over the cable panel, remove marker, work in pattern across 22 sts for Sleeve (left shoulder saddle), remove marker, bind off remaining 21[22, 24, 24, 25, 27, 27, 28, 29] Front sts, decreasing 1 st in center of cable panel.

Shoulder saddles
Rejoin yarn to WS of one set of Saddle sts.
Work in pattern over 22 sts (working edge sts in St st) until Saddle measures 4.25[4.5, 4.75, 4.75, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75] inches/ 11[11.5, 12, 12, 12.5, 14, 14, 14, 14.5] cm.
Bind off, decreasing 1 st in center of cable panel as for Front section.

Repeat for other set of Saddle sts.

FINISHING

Sew edges of saddles to Front and Back shoulders.

Collar
Using circular needle, beginning at the bottom of the Right Front with RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along Front edge, 1 st in each st bound off for Right Saddle, Back neck, and Left Saddle, and 2 sts for every 3 rows along Left Front edge. Work in Garter stitch for 4.5"/11.5 cm. Bind off.

Graft underarm sts together using Kitchener stitch. Weave in all ends and block as desired.

A – Body measurement (not including collar): 30.5[35, 39.5, 44.25, 48.5, 53, 57.5, 62.25, 66.5] inches/ 77.5[89, 100.5, 112.5, 123, 134.5, 146, 158, 169] cm
B – Cuff circumference: 9.25 inches/23.5 cm
C – Upper sleeve circumference: 12[13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18.75, 19] inches/ 30.5[33, 35.5, 38, 40.5, 43, 45.5, 47.5, 48.5] cm
D – Body length to underarm: 12.5 inches / 32 cm
E – Armhole length (not including saddle): 5.5[6.25, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches/ 14[16, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24] cm
F – Half of saddle width (length added to armhole by saddle): 1.75 inches/4.5 cm
G – Shoulder: 4.25[4.5, 4.75, 4.75, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75] inches/ 11[11.5, 12, 12, 12.5, 14, 14, 14, 14.5] cm
H – Back neck:  6.25[6.25, 6.25, 7, 7, 7, 7.25, 7.25, 7.25] inches/ 16[16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Alison is part of the design team at Berroco yarns, and lives in Providence, RI. She has been working in the knitting industry as a designer, teacher and technical editor since 2002.

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry, on Berroco.com or by email (non-Rav) for knitters to contact with your support questions.

Pattern & images © 2020 Alison Green.