INTRODUCTION

Bad Rap

by Merri Fromm

Knitters tend to love interesting techniques that create beautiful designs such as lace or stranded/Fair Isle knitting. But ask most any knitter about working intarsia and the enthusiasm changes to an instant "no." I've met so many knitters who won't touch intarsia to save their lives! I can't tell you why a technique as easy as intarsia gets this undeserved reputation – there is only a simple twist to be performed between colors.

What I can tell you is that this vest is fun to knit. Big colorblocks of intarsia colorwork mean the only seaming needed is the side seams. You can use up leftover yarn or start new with a wonderful fall color palette. Bad Rap is a classic vest and sure to be a fall wardrobe staple.

model: Victoria Shipman, Merri Fromm

photos: Gaius Nelson, Tamara Nelson-Fromm

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with 0 inches/0 cm of ease; knit one size larger if you prefer an easy or oversized fit

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  32[35.25, 41.5, 44.75, 48, 52, 57.5, 62.5, 67.25, 72] inches/ 81.5[89.5, 105.5, 113.5, 122, 132, 146, 159, 171, 183] cm
Length:  20[22, 23, 24.5, 24.5, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26] inches/ 51[56, 58.5, 62, 62, 63.5, 65, 65, 66, 66] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Brooklyn Tweed Arbor [100% American Targhee wool; 145/133 per 50g skein];
[MC] Lovat; 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5] skeins
[CC1] Butte; 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] Fleet; 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] skeins
[CC3] Alizarin; 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] skeins
[CC4] Treehouse; 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] skeins
[CC5] Tincture; 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a DK-weight, 3-ply, worsted spun wool yarn that is smooth, round and springy.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US 5/3.75 mm needle for working body knitting flat
US 4/3.5 mm needles in your preferred needle(s) for working a small circumference in the round

Notions
scrap yarn or stitch holders
stitch markers
yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Rib Pattern (worked flat; multiple of 4 sts)
Row 1 [RS]: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Rep Row 1 for patt.

Working Intarsia: When changing yarns, bring the new strand up from underneath the previous strand, twisting the yarns together to prevent holes in work.

The colorblocks are meant to look random. Each row has 3 colors repeated. There should never be the same colorblock next to or directly above or below each other.

The Bad Rap pattern uses different width and numbers of colorblocks per finished size. Sizes with even numbers of blocks across begin with half blocks.

Colorblock pattern (see Colorblock layout below)
Back
All sizes
Colorblock Section 1: *CC1, MC, CC2; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 2: *CC4, CC3, MC; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 3: *CC5, CC4, CC2; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 4: *MC, CC3, CC5; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 5: *CC2, CC5, CC3; repeat from * to end.

Front
Sizes XS[S, M, L, -, -, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
Colorblock Section 1: *MC, CC1, CC2; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 2: *CC3, CC4, MC; repeat from * to end.
Colorblock Section 3: *CC4, CC5, CC1; repeat from * to end .
Colorblock Section 4: *CC3, MC, CC2; repeat from * to end .
Colorblock Section 5: *CC5, CC2, CC3; repeat from * to end.

Sizes -[-, -, -, 1x, 2x, -, -, -, -] only
Work Front Colorblock pattern as given for Back.

If more sections are needed for desired length, go back to Section 1, all sizes will have partial blocks on the shoulders.

Colorblock Schematics:

DIRECTIONS

Back
With smaller needle, CO 82[90, 106, 114, 122, 132, 146, 158, 170, 182] sts.

Work in Rib Pattern for 10 rows.

Next row [WS]: Change to larger needle, purl.

Next row [RS]: Begin intarsia Colorblock pattern with color as indicated in Pattern Notes and Colorblock Schematic.

Work 1 selvedge stitch on each side of front and back in stockinette (k1 on RS, p1 on WS), in the color needed for that row.

For sizes XS[S, M, L, —, —, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X] :
With CC1, k1, work 10[11, 13, 14, —, —, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts for half block, then with next color work 20[22, 26, 28, —, —, 24, 26, 28, 30] sts, continue repeat in Colorblock pattern until 11[12, 14, 15, —, —, 13, 14, 15, 16] sts remain to work half in next color of Colorblock pattern.

For sizes —[—, —, —, 1X, 2X, —, —, —, —] :
With CC1, k1, work —[—, —, —, 24, 26, —, —, —, —] sts, continue repeat in Colorblock pattern across, k1.

For all sizes:
Work as established for Section 1 of Colorblock pattern for 32[36, 40, 42, 38, 40, 38, 40, 42, 44] rows.

Continue in block pattern through as many remaining sections as needed until back measures 13[14, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16, 16] inches/ 33[35.5, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm or desired length to armhole, working 32[36, 40, 42, 38, 40, 38, 40, 42, 44] rows for each section.

Begin armhole shaping:
Continuing with Colorblock pattern sections, work armhole shaping.
Row 1 [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, work to end of row. 80[88, 104, 111, 119, 129, 142, 154, 166, 178]
Row 2 [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, work to end of row. 78[86, 102, 108, 116, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174] sts.
Repeat Rows 1-2 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3] more times. 74[82, 98, 102, 110, 120, 122, 134, 138, 150] sts.

Dec row [RS]: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1.
Repeat Dec row every RS row 4[5, 7, 7, 8, 9, 7, 8, 7, 8] more times. 64[70, 82, 86, 92, 100, 106, 116, 122, 132] sts.

Continue working until armhole measures 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10] inches/ 18[20.5, 20.5, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24, 25.5, 25.5] cm from bound off edge.

Back Neck and Left Shoulder
Next row [RS]: K 11[14, 18, 20, 23, 27, 27, 31, 32, 36] sts, BO 42[42, 46, 46, 46, 46, 52, 54, 58, 60] sts, knit to end. Place sts on holder.

Front
With smaller needle, CO 82[90, 106, 114, 122, 132, 146, 158, 170, 182] sts.

Work in Rib Pattern for 10 rows.

Next row [WS]: Change to larger needle, purl.

Next row [RS]: Begin Intarsia Colorblock pattern as indicated in Pattern Notes.

Work 1 selvedge stitch on each side of front and back in stockinette (k1 on RS, p1 on WS), in the color needed for that row.

For sizes XS[S, M, L, —, —, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X] :
With CC1 k1, work 10[11, 13, 14, —, —, 12, 13, 14, 15] sts for half block, then with next color work 20[22, 26, 28, —, —, 24, 26, 28, 30] sts, continue repeat in Colorblock pattern until 11[12, 14, 15, —, —, 13, 14, 15, 16] sts remain to work half in next color of Colorblock pattern.

For sizes —[—, —, —, 1X, 2X, —, —, —, —] :
With CC1, k1, work —[—, —, —, 24, 26, —, —, —, —] sts, continue repeat in Colorblock pattern across, k1.

For all sizes:
Work as established for Section 1 of Colorblock pattern for 32[36, 40, 42, 38, 40, 38, 40, 42, 44] rows.

Continue in block pattern through as many remaining sections as needed until Front measures 13[14, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16, 16] inches/ 33[35.5, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm, or desired length to armhole, working 32[36, 40, 42, 38, 40, 38, 40, 42, 44] rows for each section.

Begin armhole shaping:
Continuing with Colorblock pattern Sections, work armhole shaping.
Row 1 [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, work to end of row. 80[88, 104, 111, 119, 129, 142, 154, 166, 178] ] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, work to end of row. 78[86, 102, 108, 116, 126, 138, 150, 162, 174] sts.
Repeat Rows 1-2 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3] more times. 74[82, 98, 102, 110, 120, 122, 134, 138, 150] sts.

Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1.
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4[5, 7, 7, 8, 9, 7, 8, 7, 8] more times. 64[70, 82, 86, 92, 100, 106, 116, 122, 132] sts.

Continue working until armhole measures 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7] inches/ 45.5[45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 43, 43, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm from bound off edge.

Bind off for neckline shaping:
Next row [RS]: K 25[28, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42, 46, 48, 52] , BO 14[14, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] work to end.

Continue working on Right Front Shoulder only, place sts for Left Front Shoulder on holder.

Next row [WS]: Purl to end.

Work neckline shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts, work to end. 23[26, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 45, 49] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3: BO 2 sts. 21[24, 28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 43, 47] sts.
Repeat Row 2.
Row 5: BO 1[1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2] sts. 20[23, 26, 29, 31, 35, 36, 40, 41, 45] sts.
Repeat Row 2.
Row 7: K1, ssk, knit to end. 19[22, 25, 28, 30, 34, 35, 39, 40, 44] sts.
Repeat Row 2.
Repeat last 2 rows 8[8, 8, 8, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8] more times. 11[14, 17, 20, 23, 27, 27, 31, 32, 36] shoulder sts remain.
Place shoulder sts on yarn holder.

Place 25[28, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42, 46, 48, 52] Left Shoulder sts back on needle and attach yarn to WS, BO 2, purl to end. 23[26, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46, 50] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 2, purl to end. 21[24, 28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48] sts.
Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: BO 1[1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2] , purl to end. 20[23, 26, 29, 31, 35, 36, 40, 42, 46] sts.
Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 19[22, 25, 28, 30, 34, 35, 39, 41, 45] sts.
Repeat last 2 rows 8[8, 8, 8, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9] times. 11[14, 17, 20, 23, 27, 27, 31, 32, 36] shoulder sts remain.
Next row [WS]: Purl to end,
Place shoulder sts on yarn holder.

Join Shoulders:
With WS facing, join fronts and back at shoulders using 3-Needle Bind Off.

Seam front and back.

Neckband
With RS facing, using smaller circ and starting at a Right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 42[42, 46, 46, 46, 46, 52, 54, 58, 60] sts across back neck, 46[46, 50, 50, 50, 50, 52, 54, 58, 60] sts across front to right shoulder seam. Join to work in the round and pm for beg of round. 88[88, 96, 96, 96, 96, 104, 108, 116, 120] sts.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rib rnd 4 more times.
BO in rib patt.

Armbands
With RS facing, using smaller circ and starting at a center of underarm, pick up and knit 40[44, 44, 50, 50, 54, 54, 54, 56, 56] sts to shoulder, then pick up and knit 40[44, 44, 50, 50, 54, 54, 54, 56, 56] sts to underarm. Join to work in the round and pm for beg of round. 80[88, 88, 100, 100, 108, 108, 108, 112, 112] sts.

Rib rnd: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rib rnd 4 more times.
BO in rib patt.

Repeat for other side.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block to measurements.

A - Chest circumference at underarm: 32[35.25, 41.5, 44.75, 48, 52, 57.5, 62.5, 67.25, 72] inches/ 81.5[89.5, 105.5, 113.5, 122, 132, 146, 159, 171, 183] cm
B - Body length: 20[22, 23, 24.5, 24.5, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26] inches/ 51[56, 58.5, 62, 62, 63.5, 65, 65, 66, 66] cm
C - Armhole length:  7[8, 8, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10] inches/ 18[20.5, 20.5, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24, 25.5, 25.5] cm
D - Cross shoulder width:  12.75[14, 16.5, 17.25, 18.5, 20, 21.25, 23.25, 24.5, 25.25] inches/ 32.5[35.5, 42, 44, 47, 51, 54, 59, 62, 64] cm
E - Back neck width: 8.5[8.5, 9.25, 9.25, 9.25, 9.25, 10.5, 10.75, 11.5, 12] inches/ 21.5[21.5, 23.5, 23.5, 23.5, 23.5, 26.5, 27.5, 29, 30.5] cm 
F - Shoulder width: 2.25[2.75, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5.5, 5.5, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5] inches/ 5.5[7, 9, 10, 11.5, 14, 14, 16, 16.5, 16.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Merri lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, spends her days doing a little bit of wellness coaching and a lot of dreaming about what she’s going to knit next, while working on her current knitting project. As a resident of Minnesota, she feels knitting is a required life skill. She lives with her husband and the sweet but very needy cat, Quigley.

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2023 Merri Fromm