INTRODUCTION

Variations on Chart 429

by Merri Fromm

This sweater began as an experiment: could I create a sweater with an all over pattern in stranded colorwork, which I love, without steeking, which I do not?

This quest began when I discovered some great geometric patterns in the pages of an old book. I’m not sure what they were meant to be, the book is incomplete and written in a language that I don’t read, but I fell in love with the strong graphic quality of those old charts.

To make the project a bit easier, I chose a design (no. 429) that did not require much float trapping. I also subtracted a smaller portion of that pattern that would be tolerable to purl on the reverse side. An extra bonus is that it’s easy to memorize.

Skipping the steeking also meant that I could choose this soft and delicious yarn, in a fiber that is springy enough to make all the stitches look great.

model: Merri Fromm

photos: Gaius Nelson

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with no ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 31.25[34, 38.25, 43.25, 48, 50, 52.25, 59.25, 62.5, 69.5] inches / 79.5[86.5, 97, 110, 122, 127, 132.5, 150.5, 159, 176.5] cm
Length: 20.5[21.25, 21.5, 24.75, 25.25, 25.5, 25.75, 26, 26.5, 26.75] inches / 52[54, 54.5, 63, 64, 65, 65.5, 66, 67.5, 68] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Louet Gems Fine/Sport Weight [100% Merino Wool; 225 yd/206 m per 100 g skein]
[MC] Olive; 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9] skeins
[CC1] Eggplant; 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] Teal; 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #4/3.5mm needles for working small circumferences in the round
1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 16 inches/40 cm long (if not using magic loop)
1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 32 to 40 inches/80 to 100 cm long
1 set US #5/3.75mm needles for working small circumferences in the round
1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, 16 inches/40 cm long (if not using magic loop)
1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, 32 to 40 inches/80 to 100 cm long

Notions
waste yarn
stitch holders
crochet hook
removable marker
yarn needle
optional stitch markers

GAUGE

23 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in chart pattern and stockinette stitch on larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This garment is worked seamlessly in the round from the bottom up. The body begins with a folded hem and then is worked from the hem to the underarms in stockinette stitch without shaping. Work the body with a needle length closest to the finished bust measurement.

This sweater is then split at the underarms and the front and back are finished separately. The shoulder seams are finished by using 3-needle bind off as instructed, or alternatively by binding off each shoulder and seaming them together.

Colorwork patterns begin on different stitch numbers so that patterns are centered over body and sleeves. Side stitch patterns trap stitches and balance patterns.

Charts are worked in St st.

Crochet Cast On:
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and knit 1 st in the back loop of each chain until the required number of sts have been picked up.

When the hem is turned, stitches from the CO will be worked together with the sts on the needle. This may be done in several ways:

1. The waste yarn can be removed and the resulting live stitches placed on spare needles, which are held to the back of the work, then each stitch from a working needle is worked together with a corresponding stitch from a spare needle.
2. The waste yarn crochet chain can be gradually unraveled as the row is worked, with each loop of the chain being released as the stitch it holds is worked together with a stitch from the needle.
3. The cast on stitches may be worked together with the stitches on the needle before the crochet chain is removed, and the chain may be unraveled afterwards. If you choose to use this method, it is advisable to first practice on a swatch.

Stranded Colorwork Flat
When you turn the work from the right side to the wrong side, turn it counter-clockwise to ensure that the colors twist at the edge. When you turn work from the wrong side of the fabric to the right side, turn clockwise to again ensure that the colors get locked in place at the edge and don’t leave a hole.

Carry unused colors loosely along inside of the work. When beginning each round, pick up the new color from underneath the old color. This will twist the strands, preventing holes from forming at color change points.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Hem
Using smaller needle and crochet cast-on, provisionally CO 180[196, 220, 248, 276, 288, 300, 340, 360, 400] sts, picking up sts from chain with CC1. Pm for beg of rnd and join to work in the rnd.

Knit 8 rnds.

Next rnd: Join MC and knit 1 rnd.

Change to larger needle.

Next rnd: Purl with MC.

Next rnd: *Work Rnd 1 of Side Border Chart; beg on st 5[1, 10, 3, 11, 8, 5, 10, 5, 10] of chart, work Rnd 1 of Border Chart to end m, working chart rep 5[5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13] times and ending on st 31[35, 26, 33, 25, 28, 31, 26, 31, 26] ; rep from * once more..

Cont in chart patt as set for 8 rnds more, ending after Rnd 9 of charts.

Next rnd (Rnd 10 of Border Pattern): Remove waste yarn and place provisional cast on stitches onto spare needle. Allowing the hem to fold naturally at the purl row, with the provisional cast-on sts held behind, *knit together 1 st from front needle with 1 st from back needle; rep from * until all sts have been worked. Cut CC1. 180[196, 220, 248, 276, 288, 300, 340, 360, 400] sts.

Next rnd (Rnd 11 of Border Pattern): With MC, knit, placing removable marker after first 90[98, 110, 124, 138, 144, 150, 170, 180, 200] sts to mark side "seam."

Body
Rnd 1: Join CC2, *work Rnd 1 of Side Chart; beg on st 5[1, 10, 3, 11, 8, 5, 10, 5, 10] of chart, work Rnd 1 of Body Chart to m, working 15-st repeat 5[5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13] times in total and ending on st 31[35, 26, 33, 25, 28, 31, 26, 31, 26] ; rep from * once more.

Cont in chart patts as set until 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] 15-row repeats of charts have been worked, or until piece measures desired length to underarm, ending after Rnd 8 or 15 of chart.

Separate for Back and Front:

Back
Next row [RS]: Patt 1, BO 1, (all 3 Side Chart sts have been worked); patt to m, remove m, patt 1. Place next 90[98, 110, 124, 138, 144, 150, 170, 180, 200] sts of rnd (all sts before BO st) on holder. Turn and cont on rem 89[97, 109, 123, 137, 143, 149, 169, 179, 199] sts for Back.

Next row [WS]: P1 with CC2; beg with st 31[35, 26, 33, 25, 28, 31, 26, 31, 26] of chart and reading chart from left to right, work Row 1 of Yoke and Sleeve Chart to last st, ending with st 5[1, 10, 3, 11, 8, 5, 10, 5, 10] , p1 with CC2.

Cont in Yoke and Sleeve Chart patt as set, working 1 st at each end of row in St st with CC2, until Back measures 6.75[7.75, 8.5, 9.25, 9.75, 9.75, 10.25, 10.25, 11.25, 11.25] inches / 17[19.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25, 25, 26, 26, 28.5, 28.5] cm, or approx. .5 inch / 1 cm shorter than desired armhole length, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: Patt 25[26, 30, 35, 40, 43, 45, 55, 57, 67] , join additional balls of yarn and BO 39[45, 49, 53, 57, 57, 59, 59, 65, 65] sts, patt to end. 25[26, 30, 35, 40, 43, 45, 55, 57, 67] sts rem for each shoulder.

Working each side separately at the same time, work 3 rows even in patt.

Break yarn and place each set of sts on a separate holder.

Front
Return to 90[98, 110, 124, 138, 144, 150, 170, 180, 200] sts held for Front. With circ and RS facing, join MC and CC2, K1 with MC, k1 with CC2, pass first st worked over second st worked (1 st BO), work Body Chart as est to last st, k1 with CC2. 89[97, 109, 123, 137, 143, 149, 169, 179, 199] sts.

Working 1 st at each end of row in St st with CC2, cont in Body Chart patt as est for 6 rows more.

Next row [WS]: With MC, purl across row.

Next row [RS]: K1 in MC; following Row 1 of Yoke and Sleeve Chart and beg with st 5[1, 10, 3, 11, 8, 5, 10, 5, 10] of chart, patt 39[43, 49, 56, 63, 66, 69, 79, 84, 94] sts, k2tog with MC (k2tog counts as next 2 sts of chart), patt 1, BO 3 sts in patt (1 st rem on LH needle after BO), ssk with MC (ssk counts as next 2 sts of chart), patt to last st, ending on st 31[35, 26, 33, 40, 28, 31, 26, 31, 26] of chart; k1 in MC. You will now be working the Right Front only. Place 42[46, 52, 59, 66, 69, 72, 82, 87, 97] sts for Left Front on holder. 42[46, 52, 59, 66, 69, 72, 82, 87, 97] sts.

Right Front
Next row [WS]: P1 in MC, work Yoke and Sleeve Chart patt as est to end.
Next row [RS]: K1, ssk with MC, work Yoke and Sleeve Chart to last st, k1 in MC.
Rep last 2 rows 16[19, 21, 23, 25, 25, 26, 26, 29, 29] times more. 25[26, 30, 35, 40, 43, 45, 55, 57, 67] sts.

Work even if necessary until Right Front measures same as Back to shoulder, ending after a WS row.

Break yarn and place sts on holder.

Left Front
Place sts held for Left Front back on needle. With WS facing, join yarns.

Next row [WS]: Work even in Yoke and Sleeve Chart patt to last st, P1 with MC.
Next row [RS]: K1 with MC, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog with MC, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 16[19, 21, 23, 25, 25, 26, 26, 29, 29] times more. 25[26, 30, 35, 40, 43, 45, 55, 57, 67] sts.

Work even if necessary until Left Front measures same as Back to shoulder, ending after a WS row.

Break yarn and place sts on holder.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Cuff
Using smaller needle for working small circumference in the round and crochet cast-on, provisionally CO 47[47, 50, 56, 60, 62, 62, 67, 67, 73] sts, picking up sts from chain with CC1. Pm for beg of rnd and join to work in the rnd.

Knit 8 rnds.

Next rnd: Join MC and knit 1 rnd.

Change to larger needle.

Turning rnd: Purl with MC.

Next rnd: Work Rnd 1 of Side Border Chart; beg on st 4[4, 10, 7, 5, 4, 4, 9, 9, 6] of chart, work Rnd 1 of Border Chart to end of rnd, ending on st 35[35, 29, 32, 34, 35, 35, 30, 30, 33] .

Cont in chart patt as set for 8 rnds more, ending after Rnd 9 of charts.

Next rnd (Rnd 10 of Border Chart): Remove waste yarn and place provisional cast on sts onto spare needle. Allowing the hem to fold naturally at the purl rnd, with the provisional cast-on sts held behind, *knit together 1 st from front needle with 1 st from back needle; rep from * until all sts have been worked. Cut CC1. 47[47, 50, 56, 60, 62, 62, 67, 67, 73] sts.

Next rnd (Rnd 11 of Border Chart): With MC, k3, M1L, knit to end of rnd, M1R. 48[48, 51, 57, 61, 63, 63, 68, 68, 74] sts.

Begin Sleeve Chart:
Rnd 1: Join CC2 and work Side Sleeve Chart; beg with st 3[3, 9, 6, 4, 3, 3, 8, 8, 5] , work Yoke and Sleeve Chart to end, working 15-st repeat 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times in total and ending on st 35[35, 29, 32, 34, 35, 35, 30, 30, 33] .

Work even in patt for 12[15, 15, 20, 22, 22, 22, 25, 25, 25] rnds.

Inc round: Work Side Sleeve Chart, M1L, work Yoke and Sleeve Chart to end, M1R. 2 sts increased.
Work 5[3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1] rnd(s) even in patt, working increases into Yoke and Sleeve Chart patt.
Rep last 6[4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2] rnds 13[19, 21, 23, 23, 23, 26, 24, 29, 26] times more. 76[88, 95, 105, 109, 111, 117, 118, 128, 128] sts.

Work even in patt until sleeve measures 20[20, 20, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 18.5, 17.5, 16.5] inches/ 51[51, 51, 49.5, 49.5, 49.5, 49.5, 47, 44.5, 42] cm from Turning rnd.

BO all sts loosely.

Collar
Join shoulders on WS using 3-Needle Bind Off.

With MC and larger 16-inch/40 cm or longer circ for magic loop, starting at center st of back neck, pick up and knit 20[23, 25, 27, 29, 29, 30, 30, 33, 33] sts (1 st for every BO st) to left shoulder, 33[39, 46, 50, 51, 51, 53, 53, 59, 59] sts down left front neck to front neck BO st, 1 st from center front BO st (place a removable marker in this st), 34[40, 47, 51, 52, 52, 54, 54, 60, 60] sts up right front neck, then 19[22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 29, 29, 32, 32] sts to center of back neck. Join to work in the rnd and pm for beg of rnd. 107[125, 143, 155, 161, 161, 167, 167, 185, 185] sts.

Rnd 1: With MC, knit.
Rnd 2: With CC1, knit to 2 sts before marked st, S2KPO, knit to end. 2 sts decreased.
Rnd 3: With MC, knit to 2 sts before marked st, S2KPO, knit to end. 2 sts decreased.

Rnd 4: (K1 in CC1, k1 in MC, k1 in CC1) to 3 sts before marked st, k1 in CC1, k1 in MC, S2KPO in CC1, k1 in MC, k1 in CC1, (k1 in CC1, k1 in MC, k1 in CC1) to end. 101[119, 137, 149, 155, 155, 161, 161, 179, 179] sts.

Rnd 5: (K1 in CC1, k1 in MC, k1 in CC1) to 2 sts before marked st, k1 in CC1, S2KPO in CC1, k1 in CC1, (k1 in CC1, k1 in MC, k1 in CC1) to end. 99[117, 135, 147, 153, 153, 159, 159, 177, 177] sts.

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 3.
Rnd 7: Repeat Rnd 2. 95[113, 131, 143, 149, 149, 155, 155, 173, 173] sts.
Rnd 8: Repeat Rnd 1.

Turning rnd: With MC, purl.

Lining Rnd 1: With CC1, knit to marked st, M1R, k1, M1L, knit to end. 2 sts increased.
Lining Rnd 2: With CC1, knit.
Rep last 2 rnds 3 times more. 103[121, 139, 151, 157, 157, 163, 163, 181, 181] sts.

Lining Rnd 9: With CC1, knit to 1 st before marked st, M1R, K1, M1R, k1, M1L, k1, M1L, knit to end. 107[125, 143, 155, 161, 161, 167, 167, 185, 185] sts.

BO loosely. Fold at Turning rnd and blind stitch collar into place.
Alternatively, you may bind off by picking up stitches from the pick-up and working 3-Needle Bind Off.

FINISHING

Beginning at shoulder, sew sleeves to body using mattress stitch. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

A: Bust circumference: 31.25[34, 38.25, 43.25, 48, 50, 52.25, 59.25, 62.5, 69.5] inches / 79.5[86.5, 97, 110, 122, 127, 132.5, 150.5, 159, 176.5] cm
B: Body length: 14.25[14.25, 14.25, 16.75, 16.75, 16.75, 16.75, 16.75, 16.75, 16.75] inches / 36[36, 36, 42.5, 42.5, 42.5, 42.5, 42.5, 42.5, 42.5] cm
C: Back width: 15.5[16.75, 19, 21.5, 23.75, 24.75, 26, 29.5, 31.25, 34.5] inches / 39.5[42.5, 48.5, 54.5, 60.5, 63, 66, 75, 79.5, 87.5] cm
D: Back neck width: 6.75[7.75, 8.5, 9.25, 10, 10, 10.25, 10.25, 11.25, 11.25] inches / 17[19.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26, 28.5, 28.5] cm
E: Cuff circumference: 8.25[8.25, 8.75, 9.75, 10.5, 10.75, 10.75, 11.75, 11.75, 12.75] inches / 21[21, 22, 25, 26.5, 27.5, 27.5, 30, 30, 32.5] cm
F: Sleeve length: 20[20, 20, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 18.5, 17.5, 16.5] inches / 51[51, 51, 49.5, 49.5, 49.5, 49.5, 47, 44.5, 42] cm
G: Upper arm circumference: 13.25[15.25, 16.5, 18.25, 19, 19.25, 20.25, 20.5, 22.25, 22.25] inches / 33.5[38.5, 42, 46.5, 48.5, 49, 51.5, 52, 56.5, 56.5] cm
H: Armhole length: 7.25[8.25, 9, 9.75, 10.25, 10.25, 10.75, 10.75, 11.75, 11.75] inches / 18.5[21, 23, 25, 26, 26, 27.5, 27.5, 30, 30] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Merri is contemplating future designs aimed to create world peace and harmony, but for now is knitting another sock.

You’ll find more of her work at TangletownKnits and at Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2016 Merri Fromm. Contact Merri