INTRODUCTION

Merinero

by Anu Ahoniemi

Merinero is a modern take on the classical French Marinière sweater for seafarers. The stripes first follow a classical order, but are then decomposed. The newly organized lines break, recalling the rhythm of the Morse alphabet. The sweater is light and as such is more suitable for city use than for harsh maritime conditions. It takes your mind to seafaring when your destiny is to stay on the mainland instead of wandering the wild seas of the world.

Merinero is knitted bottom up in the round with an easy stripe sequence. The sleeves are knit separately and with stripes, then joined to the body and the round yoke is knitted in one piece. Short rows are added to shape the neck just before knitting the ribbed collar. There are no seams to sew after binding off the sweater. Merinero is a sweater with minimal finishing work after knitting.

The yarn is an airy and light lambswool from French company Biches & Buches. Their delicious colors make it possible to play with color and invent your own striping if you prefer something else than the classical navy-gray combination of the sample.

The sweater has 8 sizes for men, but you could as well knit it unisex. The construction is very easy and Merinero is recommended for your first seamless knit.

model: Ilkka Lehdonmäki

photos: Anu Ahoniemi

SIZE

Men's S[M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]

Shown in size L with no ease. If you want a more relaxed look, choose a size which is 2-4 inches / 5-10 cm larger than actual chest measurement.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest:  34[37.5, 41, 46, 49.5, 55, 58, 61.5] inches/ 87[96, 104, 117, 126, 139, 148, 157] cm
Body length from underarm to hem:  14.5[15.5, 15.5, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18] inches/ 37[40, 40, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm
Sleeve length from underarm:  19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22] inches/ 48[50, 52, 53, 55, 55, 55, 56] cm
Sleeve circumference at bicep:  11.5[14, 15.5, 16, 17, 18.5, 19, 20] inches/ 29[35, 39, 41, 43, 47, 49, 51] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Biches et Bûches Le Petit Lambswool [100% pure Scottish lambswool, 270 yd/248 m per 50 g skein];
[MC] Dark blue turquoise 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] skeins or 720[880, 980, 1170, 1280, 1440, 1550, 1660] yd/ 660[810, 890, 1070, 1170, 1310, 1410, 1510] m
[CC] Medium grey 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins or 160[190, 210, 250, 270, 310, 330, 350] yd/ 150[180, 190, 230, 250, 280, 300, 320] m

Yarn Characteristics
Biches et Bûches Le Petit Lambswool is pure lambswool which is soft and rustic at the same time. It is a 2-ply woollen spun light fingering yarn. The fiber of the yarn intertwine which each other creating a light and airy fabric, smooth and without any space between the stitches after you have washed and blocked your garment. This yarn will create a very light sweater. If substituting the yarn, choose a rustic, woollen spun, non-superwash yarn. If using a different type of yarn, see the note about the ribbing in the Pattern Notes, below.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1.5/2.5mm 32 inch/80 cm circular needle
US #1.5/2.5mm 16 inch/40 cm circular needle
US #1.5/2.5mm needles for small circumference in the round

US #2.5/3mm 32 inch/80 cm circular needle
US #2.5/3mm 16 inch/40 cm circular needle
1 set of US #2.5/3mm needles for small circumference in the round

Notions
tapestry needle
waste yarn or stitch holders
stitch markers

GAUGE

23 sts/32 rounds = 4 inches /10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Technique:

• Old Norwegian Cast On

Important note: The yarn used for this design has a very specific texture, so the ribbing doesn't stretch out, and holds its shape. If you're substituting a more conventional yarn, especially a superwash wool, do not cast on the larger stitch count for the ribbing; use the smaller needle to cast on the stitch count listed in Round 9. Work the ribbing on that stitch count, and skip the decrease round that's worked in transition between ribbing and stockinette stitch.

DIRECTIONS

BODY
With longer US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle, length 32 inch/80 cm and MC, CO 240[264, 288, 324, 348, 384, 408, 432] sts. Place marker and join for working in the round.

Rounds 1-8 (MC): (K1, p1) around.

Change to larger needle of same length.

Round 9: [SSK, k4] around. 200[220, 240, 270, 290, 320, 340, 360] sts.

Establish Stripe sequence for BODY:
Join CC at the start of round 9, and leave both yarns attached throughout.

Rounds 1-8 (MC): Knit.
Rounds 9-10 (CC): Knit.

Work stripe sequence until the length of BODY is 14.5[15.5, 15.5, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18] inches/ 37[40, 40, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm or as desired, ending with a CC stripe.

Set BODY aside, leaving sts on needle and yarns attached. Make sleeves.

SLEEVE (make two)
With smaller needles for small circumference in the round and MC, CO 48[54, 60, 60, 66, 66, 72, 72] sts. Note or mark start of round, and join for working in the round.

Rounds 1-8: (K1, p1) around.

Change to larger needles for small circumference in the round.
Round 9: [SSK, k4] around. 40[45, 50, 50, 55, 55, 60, 60] sts rem.

Establish Stripe Sequence for sleeve:
Rounds 1-8 (MC): Knit.
Rounds 9-10 (CC): Knit.
Rep Stripe Sequence two more times.

Increase Pattern
Inc round 1 (MC): Knit.
Inc round 2 (MC): K to last st, M1R, k1.
Inc round 3 (MC): K1, M1L, k to end.
Inc rounds 4-6 (MC): Knit.
Inc rounds 7-8 (MC): Rep rounds 2-3.
Inc rounds 9-10 (CC): Knit. 4 sts increased per Pattern repeat.

Rep Increase Pattern  6[8, 9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13] more times. 68[81, 90, 94, 99, 107, 112, 116] sts.

Continue even in Stripe Sequence until sleeve measures 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22] inches / 48[50, 52, 53, 55, 55, 55, 56] cm or desired length to underarm, ending with a CC stripe. Cut both yarns.

Yoke
Continue with yarns and needle from BODY.

Note: 
Read ahead before you begin and start the 30-round Stripe Sequence for yoke and the Decrease pattern for yoke AT THE SAME TIME.

Stripe Sequence:
Rounds 1-8 (MC): Knit.
Rounds 9-10 (CC): Knit.
Rounds 11-18 (MC): Knit.
Rounds 19-20 (MC and CC): [K13 in CC, k3 in MC] around. Catch the yarn strands on WS every 2-3 sts.
Rounds 21-28: (MC): Knit.
Rounds 29-30 (CC): [K2 in MC, k2 in CC] around. Cut CC and continue with MC only.

Working Stripe Sequence as given above, work decreases as follows:
Round 1 for all sizes except S and 5XL: Placing marker for BOR, knit across sts of the first sleeve, pm, k 100[110, 120, 135, 145, 160, 170, 180] sts for the first half of the body, pm, knit across sts of second sleeve, pm, k the rest of the body sts. 336[382, 420, 458, 488, 534, 564, 592] sts.

Round 1 for sizes S and 5XL: Placing marker for BOR, knit across sts of the first sleeve, k 100[110, 120, 135, 145, 160, 170, 180] sts for the first half of the body, knit across sts of second sleeve, k the rest of the body sts. 336[382, 420, 458, 488, 534, 564, 592] sts.

Round 2, for all sizes except S and 5XL: [K2tog, k to m] –[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, -] times, k to end.
Sizes L and 4X, proceed to "All sizes" instruction below.

Round 3, sizes M, 1X, 2X, 3X: [K2tog, k to m] -[4, -, 4, 4, 2, -, -] times, k to end.
Sizes 2X and 3X, proceed to "All sizes" instruction below.

Round 4, sizes M and 1X only: [K2tog, k to m] -[4, -, 2, -, -, -, -] times, k to end.
Size 1X, proceed to "All sizes" instruction below.

Round 5, size M only: [K2tog, k to m] -[2, -, -, -, -, -, -] times, k to end.

All sizes continue: Work 19[15, 8, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] rounds in pattern, removing any markers placed.

Next round, place markers: [K 21[23, 26, 28, 30, 33, 35, 37] , pm] 15 times, k to end. 16 markers in place, including BOR marker. 336[368, 416, 448, 480, 528, 560, 592] sts.

Decrease Set 1
Decrease round: [K2tog, k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm] around. 32 sts dec.
Knit 9 rounds even.
Rep the last 10 rounds, 2[1, 2, 2, 3, 2, 2, 2] more times. 240[304, 320, 352, 352, 432, 464, 496] sts.

Decrease Set 2
Decrease round: [K2tog, k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm] around. 32 sts dec.
Knit 4 rounds even.
Rep the last 5 rounds, 2[4, 5, 6, 6, 8, 9, 10] more times. 144[144, 128, 128, 128, 144, 144, 144] sts.

Sizes S, M, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL ONLY:
Final Decrease: [K2tog, k to m, rm] 15 times, k2tog, k to end. 128 sts.
Knit 4 rounds.

Other sizes:
Knit 5 rounds, removing all markers except BOR.

Short row shaping:
Round 1 (RS): K90, w&t.
Row 2: (WS): P to 3 sts before m, w&t.
Row 3: (RS): K to 3 before previously wrapped st, w&t.
Row 4 (WS): P to 3 before previously wrapped st, w&t.
Rep Rows 3-4 3 more times, and work Row 3 once more.
Next row (WS): P to m, working wrapped sts together with their wraps, sl m, w&t, sl m.
Round 13: Knit around, working wrapped sts together with their wraps.

Collar
Change to shortest length of smaller circular needle.

Rounds 1-16: (K1, p1) around.

Fold collar over towards the inside, and join, as follows:
Work k2tog on the next stitch from the left needle and a purl bump picked-up fom the inside of the neckline, from the last stockinette stitch round, *work k2tog on the next stitch from the left needle and a purl bump picked-up from the inside of the neckline, from the last stockinette stitch round. Lift first stitch on right needle over second, to bind off. Repeat from * until all stitches have been worked.

Cut yarn and pull through last st.

FINISHING

Wash, and weave in ends.

A – Chest: 34[37.5, 41, 46, 49.5, 55, 58, 61.5] inches / 87[96, 104, 117, 126, 139, 148, 157] cm
B – Neck: 22 inches/56 cm
C – Cuff circumference: 7[7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5] inches / 17[20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26] cm
D – Upper arm circumference: 11.5[14, 15.5, 16, 17, 18.5, 19, 20] inches / 29[35, 39, 41, 43, 47, 49, 51] cm
E – Body length[, , , , , , ] : 14.5[15.5, 15.5, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18] inches / 37[40, 40, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm
F – Yoke depth:  9[9.5, 9.5, 10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12, 12.5] inches / 23[24, 25, 27, 30, 30, 31, 32] cm
G – Sleeve length: 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22] inches / 48[50, 52, 53, 55, 55, 55, 56] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Anu Ahoniemi is an architect who loves to design knitwear that can be lived in.

She has designed before for Knitty and Taitolehti. You can find her designs in English and Finnish on Ravelry. She is active in Instagram as @piippahankiainen.

Pattern & images © 2021 Anu Ahoniemi