INTRODUCTION

Twisted Brain

by Amy Gunderson

I've heard from a lot of my friends in these pandemic times that the only knitting they could bear to do was simple. Stockinette stitch sweaters, garter stitch scarves, plain hats with nothing fancy have been rewarding and soothing, leaving their noggins free to worry about all of the more important things they've been facing. I've been in a similar spot. My brain hasn't been quite right this past year; full of anxiety with difficulty focusing.

But recently, I've felt that spark coming back. That desire to knit more intricate things, patterns, shapes – something to challenge me a bit more, and thus Twisted Brain was born. The cable and lace pattern isn't particularly hard to work, but it does require some attention, especially when it comes to the neck shaping and staying in pattern. But it's perfectly doable.

Knit in Hikoo's Simplicity, this is a pretty darn affordable project. Machine washable and easy to care for, this makes a decent sweater to throw on over your pjs and wear around the house, too. There are pockets, of course, perfect for stashing cookies, dog treats, and tiny bottles of wine – all of my personal pandemic staples.

model: Brie Kemp

photos: Amy Gunderson

SIZE

 XS[S, M, L, 1X/ 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size S with 5.75 inches/14.5 cm of positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust, with Collar Overlapping:  34.75[39.75, 44.75, 50, 55, 60, 65.25, 70.25, 75.25] inches/ 88.5[101, 113.5, 127, 139.5, 152.5, 165.5, 178.5, 191] cm
Length:  22[22.5, 23.25, 23.75, 24.5, 25, 25.75, 26, 26.5] inches/ 56[57, 59, 60.5, 62, 63.5, 65.5, 66, 67.5] cm

Garment is designed to be worn with 4-8 inches/10-20cm of positive ease in the chest/bust circumference.

MATERIALS

Yarn
Hikoo Simplicity [55% superwash merino, 28% acrylic, 17% nylon; 117 yds/107 m per 1.75 oz/50 g skein]; color: 015 Ripe Raspberry, 9[11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21, 23] skeins

Yarn Characteristics:
This pattern will have the best stitch definition worked in a 100% merino yarn, or a blend of merino. Look to have at least 50% merino in the yarn you choose, and choose a solid or near-solid colorway so that the patterning is visible.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #6/4mm circular needles, 24-40 inches/60-100 cm long
US #6/4mm needles for small circumference in the round

Notions
cable needle
stitch markers
stitch holders or waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Cable Pattern
21 sts/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

K1, P1 Ribbing (odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for patt.

2/2/2 RPC: Sl next 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left needle, sl last 2 slipped sts from cable needle back to left needle, p2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle.

CHARTS

Cable Pattern (Multiple of 14 sts + 6)
Row 1 (RS): K2, p1, *p4, 2/2/2 RPC, p4; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 2 (WS): P2, k1, *k4, p2, k2, p2, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 3: K2, p1, *p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, ssk, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 4: P2, k1, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 5: K2, p1, *p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, ssk, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 6: P2, k1, *(k2, p4) twice, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 7: K2, p1, *p1, k2tog, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, ssk, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 8: P2, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 9: K2, p1, *p1, k3, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 10: P2, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 11: K2, p1, *p1, k2, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k2, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 12: P2, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 13: K2, p1, *p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 14: P2, k1, *k1, p2, k8, p2, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 15: *2/2/2 RPC, p8; rep from * to last 6 sts, 2/2/2 RPC.
Row 16: Rep Row 14.
Row 17: K2, p1, *p1, k1, yo, ssk, p6, k2tog, yo, k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 18: P2, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 19: K2, p1, *p1, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 20: P2, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 21: K2, p1, *p1, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 22: P2, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 23: K2, p1, *p1, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 24: P2, k1, *(k2, p4) twice, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 25: K2, p1, *p2, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 26: P2, k1, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 27: K2, p1, *p3, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 28: P2, k1, *k4, p2, k2, p2, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Rep Rows 1-28 for pattern.

DIRECTIONS

Pocket Linings – Work 2.
Cast on 31 sts. Work in stockinette stitch for 5 inches/17.5 cm. Break yarn, place sts on holder.

Hem
With circular needle, cast on 251[287, 323, 359, 395, 431, 467, 503, 539] sts.
Work in K1, P1 Ribbing for 1.25 inches / 3 cm, ending with RS row.

Dec row (WS): Work in K1, P1 Ribbing over 13 sts, pm, [p2tog] 2 times, [k2tog, k4, p2tog, p1, k2tog, k1, p2tog, p1, k3] 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] times, k2, p2tog, p1, pm, work in K1, P1 Ribbing over rem 13 sts. 200[228, 256, 284, 312, 340, 368, 396, 424] sts remain.

Establish Body Pattern
Row 1 (RS): Work in K1, P1 Ribbing to m, work Cable patt to m, work in K1, P1 Ribbing to end. Continue as established until piece measures 6.25”/16 cm from cast-on edge, ending with WS row.

Place Pockets
Row 1 (RS): Work in K1, P1 Ribbing to m, work in established pattern over 7[10, 14, 17, 21, 24, 28, 31, 35] sts, place next 31 sts on waste yarn and return sts of pocket lining to left needle with RS facing, work in established pattern over Pocket Lining sts, work in established pattern to 38[41, 45, 48, 52, 55, 59, 62, 66] sts before m, place next 31 sts on waste yarn and return sts of pocket lining to left needle with RS facing, work in established pattern over Pocket Lining sts, work in established pattern to m, work in K1, P1 Ribbing to end.

Work in pattern until piece measures 7.75[8, 8.5, 8.75, 9.25, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.25] inches/ 19.5[20.5, 21.5, 22, 23.5, 24, 25.5, 25.5, 26] cm from cast-on edge, ending with WS row.

Shape Neck
Note: neckline and armhole shaping will overlap. Read ahead.

Dec row (RS): Work in K1, P1 Ribbing to m, k2, p2tog, work in patt as set to 4 sts before m, ssp, k2, work in K1, P1 Ribbing to end. 2 sts dec'd.

Work Dec row every 6 rows, 4[3, 4, 3, 4, 3, 4, 2, 3] times total, then work Dec row every 4 rows, 17[19, 18, 20, 19, 21, 20, 23, 22] times for a total of 21[22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25] sts dec'd. Keep pattern correct outside of decreases.

Note: Neck Shaping will continue into next section. Please read ahead

At the same time, when piece measures 15[15, 15.25, 15.25, 15.5, 15.5, 15.75, 15.75, 16] inches/ 38[38, 38.5, 38.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40, 40, 40.5] cm from cast-on edge, separate fronts and back as follows:

Place markers on either side of center 84[98, 112, 126, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196] sts, to mark start and end of Back stitches. This will be 6[7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] full Cable Pattern repeats, starting with stitch 1[8, 1, 8, 1, 8, 1, 8, 1] and ending with stitch 14[7, 14, 7, 14, 7, 14, 7, 14] .

Row 1 (RS): Work in K1, P1 Ribbing to m, work as established over Right Front to 6 sts before marked Back sts, bind off next 12 sts, work as established over Back to 6 sts before marked Back sts, bind off next 12 sts, work as established over Left Front to m, work in K1, P1 Ribbing to end. 72[86, 100, 114, 128, 142, 156, 170, 184] sts remain for Back, stitch count will vary for Front depending on how many decreases have been worked. Place Right Front and Back on separate stitch holders, continue over Left Front.

Work over remaining Left Front sts, continuing to work Neck Decreases. When all Decs have been complete, there will be 31[37, 44, 50, 57, 63, 70, 76, 83] sts. Work even in pattern until piece measures 5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5] cm from underarm bind-off, ending with WS row.

Shape Shoulder
Bind off 4[5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next RS row, 4[6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next RS row, 4[6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17] sts at beg of next RS row, and 5[6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18] sts at beg of next RS row. 14 sts rem: 1 edge st, plus 13 ribbed sts rem for Collar.
Work even in established rib over 13 sts and in stockinette st for the edge st, for 5.25[5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 6, 6] inches/ 13.5[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15] cm.
Bind off all sts.

Right Front
Place held Right Front sts on needle. Attach yarn at armhole edge and work a WS row. Work over remaining Right Front sts, continuing to work Neck Decreases. When all Decs have been complete, there will be 18[24, 31, 37, 44, 50, 57, 63, 70] sts.
Work even in pattern until piece measures 5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5] cm from underarm bind-off, ending with RS row.

Shape Shoulder
Bind off 4[5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next WS row, 4[6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next WS row, 4[6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17] ] sts at beg of next WS row, and 5[6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18] sts at beg of next WS row14 sts rem: 1 edge st, plus 13 ribbed sts rem for Collar.
Work even in established rib over 13 sts and in stockinette st for the edge st, for 5.25[5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 6, 6] inches/ 13.5[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15] cm.
Bind off all sts.

Back
Place held Back sts on needle. Attach yarn at armhole edge and work a WS row.
Work in patt over remaining Back sts until piece measures 5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5] cm from underarm bind-off, ending with WS row.

Shape Shoulders
Bind off 4[5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next 2 rows, 4[6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17] sts at beg of next 2 rows, 4[6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17] sts at beg of next 2 rows, and rem 5[6, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off rem 38[40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46] Back Neck sts.

Sleeves
With needles for small circumference in the round, cast on 44[44, 46, 46, 46, 48, 48, 48, 50] sts. Place marker and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: [K1, p1] around.
Rep Rnd 1 until Cuff measures 3.25 inches/8.5 cm.

Knit 2 rnds
Inc rnd: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. 2 sts inc'd.
Work Inc rnd every 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2] rnds, 8[16, 5, 14, 20, 25, 6, 8, 8] times total, then every 8[8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4] rnds, 7[1, 14, 8, 4, 1, 23, 22, 22] time(s). 74[78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 108, 110] sts.

Work even in stockinette stitch until Sleeve measures 18.5 inches/47 cm from cast-on edge.

Saddles
Saddle setup row (RS): K 31[33, 36, 39, 41, 44, 47, 48, 49] sts, pm, k12 Saddle sts, bind off all sts to marker just placed – 12 sts remain for Saddle. Remove marker, and work even in stockinette stitch until Saddle measures approx. 3.25[4.25, 5.75, 6.75, 8, 9, 10.25, 11.5, 12.75] inches/ 8.5[10.75, 14.5, 17, 20.5, 23, 26, 29, 32.5] cm or the width of the Shoulder.

Pocket Edging
Return 31 held Pocket sts to needle. Rejoin yarn with RS facing and work in K1, P1 Ribbing for 1 inch/2.5 cm, ending with WS row. Bind off all sts in patt.

FINISHING

Soak garment in mild detergent or wool wash, roll in towel to absorb excess moisture. Lay damp garment on blocking mats, patting nicely into shape so that the back width is approximately half the measurement of the finished bust circumference.

Weave in ends.
Sew Pocket lining to WS of fronts invisibly.
Sew Pocket Edging to Fronts.
Sew Saddles to Front and Back Shoulders.
Sew bound-off edges of Sleeves to Armhole Edge.
Sew sides of Collar to Saddle and Back Neck.

A – Bust circumference (with Fronts Overlapping): 34.75[39.75, 44.75, 50, 55, 60, 65.25, 70.25, 75.25] inches/ 88.5[101, 113.5, 127, 139.5, 152.5, 165.5, 178.5, 191] cm
B – Length to Underarm: 15[15, 15.25, 15.25, 15.5, 15.5, 15.75, 15.75, 16] inches/ 38[38, 38.5, 38.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40, 40, 40.5] cm
C – Armhole Depth:  5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5]
D – Shoulder Slope: 1 inch/2.5 cm
E – Collar Extension Length:  5.25[5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 6, 6] inches/ 13.5[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15] cm
F – Back Neck Width: 7[7.25, 7.25, 7.75, 7.75, 8, 8, 8.25, 8.25] inches/17.5[18.5, 18.5, 19.5, 19.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21, 21]cm
G – Shoulder Width:  3[4.25, 5.5, 6.5, 7.75, 9, 10.25, 11.25, 12.5] inches/ 7.5[10.5, 14, 16.5, 20, 22.5, 26, 28.5, 32]
H – Cuff Circumference:  8.5[8.5, 8.75, 8.75, 8.75, 9.25, 9.25, 9.25, 9.5] inches/ 21.5[21.5, 22.5, 22.5, 22.5, 23, 23, 23, 24] cm
I – Upper Arm Circumference:  14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 20.5, 21] inches/ 35.5[38, 40.5, 43, 45.5, 48.5, 51, 52, 53.5] cm
J – Sleeve Length: 18.5 inches/47 cm
K – Saddle Length:  3.25[4.25, 5.75, 6.75, 8, 9, 10.25, 11.5, 12.75] inches/ 8.5[10.75, 14.5, 17, 20.5, 23, 26, 29, 32.5] cm
L – Saddle Width: 2 inches/2.5cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Amy Gunderson lives in Reno, Nevada, where she works as the yarn director for Jimmy Beans Wool. She also does a variety of knit and crochet freelance design but isn't known for any particular technique because she loves them all. Amy's favorite people are her two dogs, Suzy and Charli, and feels super lucky to be able to take them to work with her.

Find her on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2021 Amy Gunderson