INTRODUCTION

Fervent

by Elizabeth Felgate

A bit of lace to get truly excited about, this little sweater is one for the passionate knitter. A bit of challenge in the lace patterns at the start gets the blood racing and then there’s sprint to the finish with cropped sleeves and body.

The sweater is knit top down in the round with the sleeve stitches held and then knit down separately. Short rows raise the back neck and lengthen the back above the hem. Optional waist shaping can be implemented to create a form-fitting silhouette as shown in the sample.

model: E. Felgate

photos: J. Felgate

SIZE

 XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size XS with 3 inches/8 cm of negative ease

Garment is designed to be worn with approx. 4 inches/10 cm of negative ease so that the lace is stretched open when worn.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  30[34.5, 36.5, 38, 41.25, 46.25, 50.25, 54.25, 60] inches/ 76.5[87.5, 92.5, 96.5, 104.5, 117.5, 127.5, 137.5, 152.5] cm
Length (measured along front):  18[18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.25, 19.75, 19.75] inches/ 46[47, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5, 49, 50, 50] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Warth Mill Yarn DK [100% pure British wool; 228yd/204m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein]; color: Radish; 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
This is a rustic non-superwash wool yarn which is crepe/cable plied. The high twist of this type of ply leads to good stitch definition.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US 6/4 mm circular needle, of a length a little shorter than your finished chest measurement
A needle 1-4US sizes or 1 mm smaller than your main working needle and hem

Notions
stitch markers
waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/28 or rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch.
Lace pattern repeat is gently blocked to 3 inches/15cm deep (do not stretch widthways; this will happen naturally when worn).

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

German short rows video tutorial

You should work a gauge swatch in the round and wash and dry it as you will your finished sweater.

CHARTS

Yoke chart
Rnd 1: P1, M1R, k2, p1, k2, M1L.
Rnd 2: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1.
Rnd 3: P1, M1R, k3, p1, k3, M1L.
Rnd 4: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Rnd 5: (P1, k4) twice.
Rnd 6: P1, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk.
Rnd 7: P1, M1R, k4, p1, k4, M1L.
Rnd 8: P1, k3, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k3.
Rnd 9: P1, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k2.
Rnd 10: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k1.
Rnd 11: P1, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, ssk.
Rnds 12-13: (P1, k5) twice.
Rnd 14: P1, k1, M1R, k2, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k2, M1L, k1.
Rnd 15: P1, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k3.
Rnd 16: P1, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k2.
Rnd 17: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, ssk, k1.
Rnd 18: P1, k2tog, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, ssk.
Rnd 19: (P1, k6) twice.
Rnd 20: P1, k4, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k4.
Rnd 21: Repeat Rnd 15.
Rnd 22: Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 23: Repeat Rnd 17.
Rnd 24: Repeat Rnd 18.
Rnd 25: P1, k2tog, yo, k1, M1R, k3, p1, k3, M1L, k1, yo, ssk.
Rnd 26: P1, k5, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k5.
Rnd 27: P1, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k4.
Rnd 28: P1, k3, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k3.
Rnd 29: P1, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Rnd 30: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, ssk, k1.
Round 31: P1, k2tog, yo, k5, p1, k5, yo, ssk.
Round 32: P1, k1, yo, k5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5, yo, k1.
Round 33: K2, yo, k5, sl2, k1, p2sso, k5, yo, k1.
Round 34: K3, yo, k4, sl2, k1, p2sso, k4, yo, k2.
Round 35: K4, yo, k3, sl2, k1, p2sso, k3, yo, k3.
Round 36: K5, yo, k2, sl2, k1, p2sso, k2, yo, k4.
Round 37: K6, yo, k1, sl2, k1, p2sso, k1, yo, k5.
Round 38: K7, yo, sl2, k1, p2sso, yo, k6.

DIRECTIONS

Using main working needle, cast on 96[96, 96, 96, 96, 102, 108, 114, 114] sts using the German Twisted cast on. Pm to indicate the start of the round and after 48[48, 48, 48, 48, 51, 54, 57, 57] sts to indicate the halfway point of the round, join to work in the round being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: *K2, p1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rnd 1 4 times total.

Begin short rows:
Note: The sample used German short rows, but you can substitute your preferred method.
Short row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to first marker, sm, work 1 more st, turn.
Short row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to first marker, sm, work in pattern to BOR marker, sm, work 1 more st, turn.
Short row 3: Work in pattern to BOR marker, sm, work in pattern to first marker, sm, work to 2 sts past previous turn, turn.
Short row 4: Work in pattern to first marker, sm, work in pattern to BOR marker, sm, work to 2 sts past previous turn, turn.
Rep Short rows 3 and 4 one more time.

Next rnd: Work in pattern to end of rnd, resolving short rows as you come to them.

Work Lace yoke:
Begin working from the chart, repeating the chart 16[16, 16, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19] times to end of rnd. Work through Rnd 38. 256[256, 256, 256, 256, 272, 288, 304, 304] sts.

Size M ONLY
Next rnd: *K16, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 272 sts.

Size L ONLY
Next rnd: *K16, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Work 12 rnds even. 272 sts.
Next rnd: *K17, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 288 sts.

Size 1X ONLY
Next rnd: *K8, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 288 sts.
Work 12 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K18, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 304 sts.

Size 2X ONLY
Next rnd: *K8, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Work 12 rounds even. 306 sts
Next rnd: *K9, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Work 12 rounds even. 340 sts
Next rnd: *K20, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 357 sts.

Size 3X ONLY
Next rnd: *K8, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 324 sts
Work 12 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K9, M1; repeat form * to end of rnd. 360 sts
Work 12 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K10, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 396 sts

Sizes 4X ONLY
Next rnd: *K8, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 342 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K9, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 380 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K10, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 418 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K22, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 437 sts.

Sizes 5X ONLY
Next rnd: *K8, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 342 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K9, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 380 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K10, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 418 sts
Work 11 rounds even.
Next rnd: *K11, M1, k1, M1; repeat from * to end of rnd. 456 sts

All sizes
Work even until yoke measures approximately 7.5[8, 8.25, 8.5, 9.25, 9, 75, 10.25, 11] inches/ 19[20.5, 21, 21.5, 23.5, 25, 26, 28, 29] cm down the front.

Separate the sleeves and body:
Next rnd: K 24[22, 23, 25, 25, 30, 34, 38, 39] sleeve sts, pm, k 80[84, 90, 94, 102, 119, 130, 142, 150] back sts, pm, k 48[44, 46, 50, 50, 60, 68, 76, 78] sleeve sts, removing marker when you reach it, pm, k 80[84, 90, 94, 102, 118, 130, 143, 150] front sts, pm, k 24[22, 23, 25, 25, 30, 34, 38, 39] sleeve sts, removing BOR marker when you reach it.

Place sleeve sts on waste yarn or holders and cut working yarn. Rejoin yarn at the beginning of the front sts.

Next rnd: K 80[84, 90, 94, 102, 119, 130, 142, 150] back sts, cast on 2[6, 6, 6, 7, 6, 5, 9, ] sts, pm, cast on 2[6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4, 9] sts, k 80[84, 90, 94, 102, 118, 130, 143, 150] front sts front sts, cast on 2[6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 9] sts , place BOR m, cast on 2[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 5, 4, 9] . 168[192, 204, 212, 230, 259, 280, 303, 336] sts.

Complete body:
Knit until your knitting measures until about 1 inch/2.5 cm above your waistline when tried on or 15.25[15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.75, 16.75] inches/ 38.5[39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 41, 41, 41.5, 42.5, 42.5] cm when measured down the front from the top of the yoke.

Note: For optional waist shaping, work the waist shaping round below.
Waist shaping rnd: K2tog, k1, k2tog, knit to 5 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, sm, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, knit to 6 sts before BOR marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1. 160[184, 196, 204, 222, 251, 272, 295, 328] sts.

All versions: Knit for a further 2 inches/5 cm.

Begin hem short rows:
Change down to a needle 1-2 US sizes/0.5 mm smaller than used for the body.

Short row 1 [RS]: Knit to first marker, sm, k10, turn.
Short row 2 [WS]: Purl to first marker, sm, purl to BOR marker, sm, p10, turn.
Short row 3: Knit to BOR marker, sm, knit to first marker, sm, knit to 5 sts before previous turn, turn.
Short row 4: Purl to first marker, sm, Purl to BOR marker, sm, purl to 5 sts before previous turn, turn.
Rep Short rows 3 and 4 one more time.

Next rnd: Knit to end of rnd, resolving short rows as you come to them.

Hem ribbing
Sizes XS[S, M, 4X, 5X] only:
Next rnd: Knit to 1 st before first m, M1, knit to 1 st before end of rnd, M1, k1. 162[186, 198, 297, 330] sts.

Size 2X[3X] only:
Next rnd: Knit to 1 st before first m, m1, knit to end of rnd. 252[273] sts.

All sizes:
Rib rnd: *K2, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rib rnd for 1 inch/2.5 cm.

Bind off as follows: K1, *k1, pass first st on RH needle over the second st; k1, slip both sts from RH needle to LH needle and k2tog tbl; rep from * until 1 st remains on RH needle. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull through remaining st.

Sleeves (work 2)
Place 48[44, 46, 50, 50, 60, 68, 76, 78] sleeve sts back on larger needle. With RS facing and beginning at right side on CO underarm sts, pick up and knit 2[6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 9] underarm sts, place BOR m, pick up and knit 2[6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 9] underarm sts underarm sts, pick up and knit 2 sts in corner between underarm sts and held sleeve sts, knit across 48[44, 46, 50, 50, 60, 68, 76, 78] sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2 sts in corner between sleeve sts and underarm, knit to end of rnd. 56[60, 62, 66, 66, 74, 82, 90, 100] sts.

Next rnd: K1, k2tog, k2tog, knit to 5 stitches before end of round, ssk, ssk, k1. 52[56, 58, 62, 62, 70, 78, 86, 96]
Knit 24[18, 14, 14, 14, 12, 9, 8, 6] rounds, then work a decrease round as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before end of round, ssk, k1.
Repeat the last 25[19, 15, 15, 15, 13, 10, 9, 7] rounds a total of 3[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 15] times. 46[48, 48, 52, 50, 56, 60, 64, 66] sts remaining.

Size XS[L, 4x] only:
Next rnd: K2tog, knit to end of rnd. 45[51, 63] sts.

Size 1X[2X] only:
Next rnd: K2tog, k1, k2tog knit to end of rnd. 48[54] sts.

All sizes
Rib rnd: *K2, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rib rnd for 1 inch/2.5 cm.

Bind off as for hem and repeat for other sleeve.

FINISHING

Sew up any small holes at the underarm. Weave in ends. Wash and dry according to the yarn instructions.

A – Neck circumference:  17.5[17.5, 17.5, 17.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.75, 20.75, 20.75] inches/ 43.5[43.5, 43.5, 43.5, 43.5, 46.5, 49, 52, 52] cm
B – Chest/Bust: 30.5[35, 37, 38.5, 41.5, 46.75, 51, 52.75, 61] inches/ 76.5[87.5, 92.5, 96.5, 104.5, 117.5, 127.5, 137.5, 152.5] cm
C – Upper arm circumference: 9.5[10.25, 10.5, 11.25, 11.25, 12.75, 14.25, 15.75, 17.5] inches/ 23.5[25.5, 26.5, 28, 28, 32, 35.5, 39, 43.5] cm,
D – Cuff circumference:  8.25[8.75, 8.75, 9.25, 9.25, 9, 10.25, 11, 11.75] inches/ 20.5[22, 22, 23, 22.5, 25.5, 27.5, 29, 30] cm.
E – Yoke depth:  7.5[8, 8.25, 8.5, 9.25, 9, 75, 10.25, 11] inches/ 19[20.5, 21, 21.5, 23.5, 25, 26, 28, 29] cm
F – Sleeve length: 14.75[14.75, 14.5, 14.75, 17.5, 17.75, 17.5, 19, 20] inches/ 37.5[37.5, 37, 37.5, 44.5, 45, 44, 48.5, 50.5]
G – Body length:  10.75[10.5, 10.25, 10, 9.75, 9.25, 9, 8.75, 8.25] inches/ 27[26.5, 26, 25.5, 25, 23.5, 23, 22, 21] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Elizabeth Felgate is an independent designer living in a stone cottage in rural Wiltshire in the UK, with eight walnut trees in the garden and roses around the windows. She is slightly obsessed with aquilegias and serama bantams. When not knitting she is a marketing consultant and mother of two.

She likes designing from first principles. Many of her patterns feature custom-designed lace patterns or unusual construction methods like her gaugeless sweaters. She loves aran weight jumpers and airy lace.

You can find her at Payhip, Ravelry and Instagram.

Pattern & images © 2022 Elizabeth Felgate