INTRODUCTION

Kingfisher

by Aubrey Busek

When I first saw the 'living in lace' mood board for this issue of Knitty, I was immediately inspired. I adore lace. Seeing a book of Victorian-inspired lace knitting patterns was one of my first draws to this craft. I've always loved historical fashion, and the way garments and textiles tell a story.

Lace can be anything you want it to be. An all over pattern, a panel, a hemline, a neckline, a simple repeat, or complex motifs, the choices are endless! In my opinion, one of the best things about lace is its versatility. There's another thing that lace knit stitches remind me of: feathers. Strong, yet ethereal, the feathers of beautiful birds are so inspirational. For the Kingfisher sweater, I looked to my feather and lace inspiration, paired with a striking color combination of blue and white.

A two-color rib is worked along the hem of the sweater, which then transitions into a dainty stranded colorwork motif that is reminiscent of the silhouette of birds. Then you transition into the main lace panel where yarn overs, decreases, and bobbles dance along the surface creating a feather inspired lace. A square-shaped neckline offsets some of the more feminine details and gives a modern touch. The sleeves have a dramatically long cuff in two-color rib, and a smaller version of the lace panel is worked along the bishop-shaped length. Finally, a saddle shoulder is worked to perfectly echo the shape of the square neck. Whether you pair this pullover with a casual pair of jeans or dress it up for a night out, I can guarantee this sweater is one you will wear often.

The Kingfisher Sweater is knit using Rozetti Yarns Nymph. This yarn is a DK-weight chainette-style blend of 84% cotton and 16% polyamide. It has a silky soft feel and lovely halo that I think wonderfully compliments the inspiration of feathers. Nymph comes in a broad palette of 15 colors ranging from soft pastels to jewel tones, with both warm and cool shades available. The cotton base makes this a great 3-season yarn choice, and also perfect for anyone who may be sensitive to animal fibers.

model: Brooke Everson

photos: Salt Paper Studio

SIZE

 XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size XS with approximately 1 inch/2.5 cm positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  30.25[33.75, 37.5, 41, 44.75, 48.5, 52, 55.75, 59.25, 63] inches / 77[85.5, 95.5, 104, 113.5, 123, 132, 141.5, 150.5, 160] cm
Length From Shoulder:  20[20.5, 21, 22, 22.5, 23, 24, 24.5, 25, 25.5] inches/ 51[52, 53.5, 56, 57, 58.5, 61, 62, 63.5, 65] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Rozetti Yarns Nymph [84% cotton, 16% polyamide; 50g/125yds]
[MC] 109 Secret Garden; 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16] skeins;
[CC] 113 Swan; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
Nymph is a unique, dk-weight chainette yarn that blends 84% cotton and 16% polyamide. The polyamide fibers are blown through the hollow-core cotton base, giving this yarn a silky-soft texture and feathery halo. Alternatively, any smooth, round dk-weight yarn with good stitch definition will make a suitable substitute. To use an alternative yarn while maintaining the halo shown in the sample, you may choose to hold a laceweight strand of mohair or alpaca together with your chosen yarn for a similar effect.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
Needle A: US #6/4mm preferred needles for knitting flat
Needle B: US #7/4.5 mm preferred needles for knitting flat

Notions
stitch markers
yarn holders or waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Two Color Rib patt with needle B
22 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Lace Panel with needle A
22 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm In Little Feathers patt with needle B

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater is knit flat in pieces, working from the bottom up. Two colors of yarn are used for the ribbed hem and a small colorwork section, and then the main color is used for the body. The sleeves are knit flat and seamed to the body using mattress stitch, and the neck edging is picked up and worked in the round after seaming.

In this pattern, you will be working a colorwork pattern flat. Please take care to carry floats across the WS of the work throughout. I recommend placing stitch markers on either side of the main Lace Panel for the Front/Back and Sleeves while working.

Please choose a size closest to your natural bust measurement for a similar fit to the modelled sample.

CHARTS

View and download CHARTS here (updated August 19/'22).

Two Color Rib [multiple of 2 sts, plus 1]
Row 1 [RS]: * With CC, k1, with MC, p1; rep from * to last st, with CC, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: * With CC, p1, * with MC, k1, with CC, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Body Lace Panel [panel of 69 sts]
Row 1 [RS]: P2, k2tog, yo, p2, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k2, k2tog, yo, p2, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p1, mb, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p3, yo, k1, ssk, k3, p1, mb, p1 [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p2, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2tog, yo, p2.
Row 2 and all other WS rows: K2, p2, [k2, p8] 2 times, [k3, p6] 2 times, k3, [p8, k2] 2 times, p2, k2.
Row 3: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p3, yo, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, p3, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, yo, p3, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p2, k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, yo, ssk, p2.
Row 5: P2, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k2, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, p2, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p1, mb, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p3, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k1, p1, mb, p1, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p2, yo, ssk, k2, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, p2, k2tog, yo, p2.
Row 7: P2, yo, ssk, p2, k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p3, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, p3, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p3, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p2, k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog yo, k1, p2, yo, ssk, p2.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Sleeve Lace Panel [panel of 41 sts]
Row 1 [RS]: P2, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p1, mb, p1, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, p3, yo, k1, ssk, k3, p1, mb, p1, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p2.
Row 2 and all other WS rows: K2, p8, [k3, p6] 2 times, k3, p8, k2.
Row 3: P2, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p3, yo, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, p3, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, yo, p3, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p2.
Row 5: P2, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p1, mb, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, p3, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k1, p1, mb, p1, [ssk, yo, k2] 2 times, p2.
Row 7: P2, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p3, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, p3, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p3, [k2, yo, k2tog] 2 times, p2.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
Hem
With MC and needle A, CO 85[95, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175] sts. Knit 2 rows. Change to needle B. Join CC. Work in two-color Rib until piece meas approx 2.5 inches/6.25 cm from cast on edge, ending with a WS Row.

Colorwork Section
Note: Change colors as indicated on chart. Carry floats across the back of work.
Work Row 1-6 of Little Feathers Chart 1 time, repeating patt 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16] times across each row. Change to needle A, cont with MC only.

Main Body
Establish patt:
Row 1 [RS]: K 8[13, 18, 23, 28, 33, 38, 43, 48, 53] , pm, work Row 1 of Lace Panel over 69 sts, pm, k 8[13, 18, 23, 28, 33, 38, 43, 48, 53] .
Row 2 [WS]: Purl to m, sl m, work Row 2 of Lace panel to m, sl m, purl to end.
Row 3: Knit to m, sl m, work Row 3 of Lace Panel to m, sl m, knit to end.
Cont as est through Row 8 of Lace Panel, then rep Rows 1-8 until Front meas approx 14[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches/ 35.5[35.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 37, 38, 38, 38, 38] cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole:
BO 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 75[85, 91, 101, 111, 121, 125, 135, 145, 155] sts rem.
Cont working even as est until piece meas approx 4.5[5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9] inches / 11.5[12.5, 14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS row.

Shape Back Neck:
Note: Maintain Lace patt as est as much as possible during shaping. If you do not have enough sts to complete yarn overs and corresponding decreases, work these sts in St st instead.
Next row [RS]: Cont as est over 30[35, 38, 41, 46, 51, 53, 57, 62, 67] Right Back sts, BO center 15[15, 15, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21] sts, cont over 30[35, 38, 41, 46, 51, 53, 57, 62, 67] Left Back sts to end. Place Right Back sts on holder or waste yarn.

Shape Left Back Neck
Row 1 and all other WS rows: Cont as est to end.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 5, cont as est to end. 25[30, 33, 36, 41, 46, 48, 52, 57, 62] sts rem.
Row 4: BO 3, cont as est to end. 22[27, 30, 33, 38, 43, 45, 49, 54, 59] sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, cont as est to end. 20[25, 28, 31, 36, 41, 43, 47, 52, 57] sts rem.
Left Back Neck shaping is complete.

Cont working even as est until piece meas 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS Row.
BO all sts in patt.
Return Right Back sts to needle, ready to work a WS Row.

Shape Right Back Neck:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 5, cont as est to end. 25[30, 33, 36, 41, 46, 48, 52, 57, 62] sts rem.
Row 2 and all other RS rows: Cont as est to end.
Row 3: BO 3, cont as est to end. 22[27, 30, 33, 38, 43, 45, 49, 54, 59] sts rem.
Row 5: BO 2, cont as est to end. 20[25, 28, 31, 36, 41, 43, 47, 52, 57] sts rem.
Right Back Neck shaping is complete.
Cont working even as est in patt until piece meas 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts in patt.

FRONT
Hem
With MC and needle A, CO 85[95, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175] sts.
Knit 2 rows.
Join CC. Change to needle B.
Work in two-color Rib until piece meas approx 2.5 inches/5 cm from cast on edge, ending with a WS Row.

Colorwork Section
Note: Change colors as indicated on chart. Carry floats across the back of work.
Work Rows 1-6 of Little Feathers Chart, one time.
Change to needle A, cont with MC only.

Main Body
Establish patt:
Row 1 [RS]: K 8[13, 18, 23, 28, 33, 38, 43, 48, 53] , pm, work Row 1 of Lace Panel over 69 sts, pm, k 8[13, 18, 23, 28, 33, 38, 43, 48, 53] .
Row 2 [WS]: Purl to m, sl m, work Row 2 of Lace panel to m, sl m, purl to end.
Row 3: Knit to m, sl m, work Row 3 of Lace Panel to m, sl m, knit to end.
Cont as est through Row 8 of Lace Panel, then rep Rows 1-8 until Front meas approx 14[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15, ] inches/ 35.5[35.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 37, 38, 38, 38, 38] cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole:
BO 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 75[85, 91, 101, 111, 121, 125, 135, 145, 155] sts rem.
Cont working even as est until piece meas approx 1[1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 3, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5] inches / 2.5[4, 5, 5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9, 10.25, 11.5] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS row.

Shape Front Neck:
Note: Maintain Lace patt as est as much as possible during shaping. If you do not have enough sts to complete yarn overs and corresponding decreases, work these sts in St st instead.
Next row [RS]: Cont as est over 20[25, 28, 31, 36, 41, 43, 47, 52, 57] Left Front sts, BO center 35[35, 35, 39, 39, 39, 39, 41, 41, 41] sts, cont as est over 20[25, 28, 31, 36, 41, 43, 47, 52, 57] Right Front sts to end. Place Left Front sts on holder or waste yarn.

Shape Right Front:
Next row [WS]: Cont as est to end.
Next row [RS]: Cont as est to end.
Cont working even as est in St st until piece meas 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.25, 17.5, 18.75, 20, 21.25, 22.5, 23.75, 25, 26.25] from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts in patt. Return Left Front sts to needle.

Shape Left Front:
Next row [WS]: Cont as est to end.
Next row [RS]: Cont as est to end.
Cont working even as est'd in St st until piece meas 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.25, 17.5, 18.75, 20, 21.25, 22.5, 23.75, 25, 26.25] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS Row.
BO all sts in patt.

SLEEVES
With MC and needle A, CO 39[39, 39, 45, 45, 45, 55, 55, 55, 55] sts. Knit 2 rows. Join CC. Change to needle B. Work in Two-Color Rib until piece meas approx 6 inches/15 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Break CC, Cont with MC only.
Inc row [RS]: K 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11] , (K1, m1) 21[21, 21, 23, 23, 29, 33, 33, 33, 33] times, k 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11] . 60[60, 60, 68, 68, 74, 88, 88, 88, 88] sts.
Next row [WS]: Purl to end.
Inc row: K 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11] , (k2, m1) 21[21, 21, 23, 23, 29, 33, 33, 33, 33] times, k 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11] . 81[81, 81, 91, 91, 103, 121, 121, 121, 121] sts.
Next row: Purl to end.

Note: Please read ahead as the sleeve shaping is worked at the same time as the Sleeve Lace pattern.

Establish patt:
Row 1 [RS]: K 20[20, 20, 25, 25, 31, 40, 40, 40, 40] , pm, work Row 1 of Sleeve Lace Panel over 41 sts, pm, k 20[20, 20, 25, 25, 31, 40, 40, 40, 40] .
Row 2 [WS]: Purl to m, sl m, work Row 2 of Sleeve Lace Panel to m, sl m, purl to end.
Cont as est in Lace Panel until piece meas approx 19 inches/47.5 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

AT THE SAME TIME, when piece meas approx 8 inches/20 cm from CO edge, begin shaping sleeve. Following rows as outlined below, work a Dec Row every 8[10, 24, 12, 34, 34, 18, -, -, -] rows 4[2, 1, 4, 2, 2, 2, -, -, -] times, then every 6[8, 22, 10, 32, 32, 16, -, -, -] rows 6[6, 2, 2, -, -, 2, -, -, -] times. 20[16, 6, 12, 4, 4, 8, -, -, -] sts dec'd, 61[65, 75, 79, 87, 99, 113, 121, 121, 121] sts rem.

Dec row [RS]: K1, ssk, cont as est to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec'd,
Even row [RS]: Cont as est to end.
Even row [WS]: Cont as est to end.

Once decreases are completed, cont working even as est, if necessary, until piece meas approx 19 inches/48.5 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole:
BO 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 51[55, 61, 65, 73, 85, 93, 101, 101, 101] sts rem.
Cont working even as est until piece meas approx 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm from first underarm bind off, ending with a WS row.

Shape for Saddle Shoulder:
Next row [RS]: BO 18[20, 23, 25, 29, 35, 39, 43, 43, 43] sts, knit to end.
Next row [WS]: BO 18[20, 23, 25, 29, 35, 39, 43, 43, 43] sts, purl to end.
15 sts rem for shoulder saddle.

Next row [RS]: Knit.
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Cont working even as est in St st until piece meas approx 4[5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8, 8.25, 9, 10, 10.5] inches/ 10[12.5, 14, 15, 18, 20.5, 21, 23, 25.5, 26.5] cm from the saddle shoulder bind offs, ending with a WS row.
Bind off all sts.

Rep for second sleeve.

FINISHING

Gently wash and block pieces to finished measurements. Weave in ends.
Sew sides of Saddles to Front and Back Shoulders. Sew Sleeve and Side Seams.

Neck Edging
With needle A and MC, beg at corner of Right Back Shoulder, pick up and knit 33[33, 33, 37, 37, 37, 37, 39, 39, 39] sts from Back Neck, 13 across Saddle, 32 down Left Front, 1 at corner of Front Neck, 33[33, 33, 37, 37, 37, 37, 39, 39, 39] sts across the Front Neck, 1 at corner of Front Neck, 32 up the Right Front, and 13 over the Saddle. 158[158, 158, 166, 166, 166, 166, 170, 170, 170] sts. Pm and join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1: * P1, K1; rep from * until 1 st bef corner st, S2KP2, ** k2, p2; rep from * till 1 st bef the corner st, S2KP2, *** k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: * Work in Rib patt as est'd to 1 st bef the corner st, S2KP2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 2 until Edging meas approx 1 inch/2.5 cm from the picked-up edge.
Bind off all sts in patt.

A – Chest Width: 15.5[17.25, 19, 21, 22.75, 24.5, 26.25, 28.25, 30, 31.75] inches/ 39.5[44, 48.5, 53.5, 58, 66.5, 72, 76, 80.5, ] cm
B – Body Length to Underarm: 14[14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches/ 35[35, 35, 37, 37, 37, 38, 38, 38, 38] cm
C – Armhole Length: 6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm
D – Shoulder Width: 3.75[4.5, 5, 5.75, 6.5, 7.5, 7.75, 8.5, 9.5, 10.25] inches/ 9.5[11.5, 12.5, 14.5, 16.5, 19, 19.5, 21.5, 24, 26] cm
E- Neck Width Front/Back: 6.25[6.25, 6.25, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches/ 16[16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19] cm
F- Front Neck Drop:  5[5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6, 6] inches / 12.5[12.5, 12.5, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15] cm
G – Back Neck Drop: 1.5 inches/4 cm
H – Wrist width: 7[7, 7, 8.25, 8.25, 8.25, 10, 10, 10, 10] inches/ 18[18, 18, 21, 21, 21, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5] cm
I – Length of Sleeve Cuff: 6 inches/15 cm
J –Sleeve Cap Length:  6[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches/ 15[16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm
K – Width of Saddle BO: 3.25[3.75, 4.25, 4.5, 5.25, 6.5, 7, 7.75, 7.75, 7.75] inches/ 8.5[9.5, 11, 11.5, 13.5, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5] cm
L- Width of Saddle: 2.75 inches/7 cm
M- Length of Saddle:  4[5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8, 8.25, 9, 10, 10.5] inches/ 10[12.5, 14, 15, 18, 20.5, 21, 23, 25.5, 26.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Aubrey Busek is a designer and the social media manager for Universal Yarn. She has been knitting since her teens, and worked as a fashion designer prior to starting her job at Universal in 2019. Outside of her work at Universal Yarn, Aubrey is an avid sewer and enjoys living the 'nerdy life'. She and her husband play video games, watch all the anime, and love attending comic book conventions together in their free time.

Find her on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2022 Aubrey Busek