INTRODUCTION

Knitloops

by Amelia Archer

These socks are knit in the basic cuff-down vanilla-style: cuff, leg, heel, foot, toe... with the simple addition of creating short loops that are knit vertically. After the first set of loops are almost complete, a new set of loops are created off-set from the original loops. The loops alternate between these two locations, pausing for the heel. Then the loops continue on the instep – or can end when desired. Because the yarn is self-striping or a dramatic gradient, the loops contrast with the working yarn. There is an impression of multiple yarns used, but without multiple yarn tails to weave in or balls to juggle.

The pattern has detailed instructions, but this is really a concept sock, so you are able to simply knit your favorite style of sock using the set-up row instructions and the basic premise of off-setting each section of Color Loops without needing to refer to the pattern. I include my favorite sock anatomy with a pre-heel that hugs the ankle, my favorite way to knit the heel flap, a good method of picking up purl bumps for the gusset, and a simple short-row toe. It's a very solid sock construction, but the weight of the sock is surprisingly light considering the color pattern because the vertical loops don't add much bulk. The sock also retains its stretchiness because the Color Loops hang vertically instead of limiting the horizontal stretch as occurs in most colorwork.

I've named these loops Color Loops because they add color (and texture) to knitting projects. Color Loops are easy to knit with and disappear like magic – with neat, vertical designs on both RS and WS. In this design, the stockinette side is the RS, but you'll see in the photos below that I consider them reversible. For demonstrations of Color Loops knitting, please see my YouTube channel videos here and on Ravelry.

photos: Amelia Archer

SIZE

Adult S[M, L]
Choose a size with approximately 1 inch/2.5cm negative ease in the foot circumference.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference:  6.75[7.75, 8.75] inches/ 17[19.5, 22.5] cm
Leg circumference:  7[8, 9] inches/ 18[20.5, 23] cm
Leg Length: 6.5 inches/16 cm as shown, adjustable to preference
Foot Length: adjustable

MATERIALS

Yarn
Knit Spin Farm [90% Superwash Targhee, 10% Nylon; 466 yds/426 m per 4 oz/115 g skein]; Nachos with Spicy Guacamole (self-striping sock yarn); 88 grams used for Size M.

Yarn Characteristics:
Select a self-striping sock yarn or dramatic sock gradient. If the yarn is not sock yarn (with some nylon), choose a high-twist, plied, fingering-weight yarn for durability.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1 /2.25mm needle(s) for working a small circumference in the round

Notions
12-inch/30-cm ruler
locking stitch markers
yarn needle

GAUGE

32 sts/46 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

What are Color Loops? Loops that hang down vertically that you knit on alternate rows as you pass them knitting with the main yarn horizontally.

The Color Loops in this design are created in the round beginning with a set-up round after completion of the cuff and later set-up rounds achieved in the same manner on designated rounds. The set-up rounds have Color Loops (CL) every 8 stitches. Here's a video that may help you get started.

To make a CL:

• Insert R needle into the next stitch (call this stitch number 1)
• Bring work to the end of your ruler with your knitting needle pressed exactly against the short edge.
• Stretch the yarn rather tightly to the other end of the ruler and pinch that point of the yarn.
• Without losing your pinch, take your knitting in hand. Remeasure if necessary.
• Place that pinch location over the stitch in progress and complete the stitch using that approximate half cm of yarn from the pinch. Don't pull the loop down or arrange it. Try to hold your knitting without dislodging that stitch and quickly move on to the next stitch without pulling the loop with any tension. Count the next stitch as stitch #2.

If you wish to have a perfectly matched pair, keep track of the rounds worked between creating the loops.

Tip: After completing the Color Loops set-up round, place a locking stitch marker at the end of each loop. This will help weigh the loop down so it hangs nicely. As the Color Loops shorten, use the stitch marker to pull the Color Loop up to get it over the needle. The stitch marker can be removed after the last stitch is pulled up onto the needle and knit.

Shadow Short Rows
RS-Shadow: Use tip of right needle to pick up right leg of the next stitch's ‘mother'. Place on left needle with right leg at the front, and knit into it.

WS-Shadow: Slip next st to right needle, insert left needle into the purl bump from the front, and purl it. Return this stitch to the left needle.

Note: If you find it easier, you can turn your work first, and work the Shadow stitch WS from the RS, as follows:
WS-Shadow - alternate version: Turn first. Then, lift the nearest leg of the first stitch on the right needle with the left needle up onto the right needle, without removing the left needle, then wrap the working yarn around the right needle, and use the left needle to pull the the leg back up and over the tip of the right needle creating a shadow stitch. Remove the left needle.

Grafting tutorials: photo and video

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
Cast on 56[64, 72] stitches. Do not join.
Row 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.
Ribbing round: [K1, p1] around. Work ribbing as set for 14 more rounds.

Leg
Knit 1 round.

Round 1, set up Color Loops: K 5[0, 5] (Make CL, k7) 6[8, 8] times, S[L]: make CL, k2.
Round 2, sizes S and L ONLY, work Color Loops: K4, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 6[-, 8] times, k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k1.
Round 2, size M ONLY, work Color Loops: K1 with MC, k1 with 2nd strand of loop, k5 MC, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 7 times, k1 with 1st strand of loop.
Round 3: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 2 -3 5 more times, or until the loop is nearly used up, ending with Round 2.

Note: If the CL is not long enough for two stitches, knit just one last stitch in between the two CL columns. The individual Color Loops might not be the same length, so they might not finish on the same round – that's fine.

Next round, set up second set of loops, size S and L ONLY: (Make CL, k7) 7[-, 9] times.
Next round, set up second set of loops, size M ONLY: K4, (Make CL, k7) 7 times, make CL, k3.
Following round, work all loops: K 0[1, 0] , (k1 with loop, k1 MC) to last 0[1, 0] sts, k 0[1, 0] with loop.

Continue, working all loops as set, until all of the first set of loops are used up. Then continue, working loops every other round, until all of the loops of the second set are nearly used up.

Repeat from Round 1, creating a third set of loops, and then working until third set of loops are nearly used up.

Transition to Heel
Next round, establish fourth set of Color Loops on instep, and set up heel pattern, sizes S and L ONLY: K9, (Make CL, k7) 2[-, 3] times, k2. This is the end of the instep, place a marker or rearrange sts as you prefer; k to end of rnd. 27[-, 35] sts on instep; 29[-, 37] on sole.
Next round, establish fourth set of Color Loops on instep, and set up heel pattern, size M ONLY: K1; this is the new start of round, rearrange sts as you prefer. K3, (Make CL, k7) 3 times, Make CL, k3. This is the end of the instep, place a marker or rearrange sts as you prefer; k to end of rnd. 31 sts on instep; 33 sts on sole.

Next round, work loops, sizes S and L ONLY: K8, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 2[-, 3] times, k 3[-, 3] ; sl1, [k1, sl 1] to end of rnd.
Next round, work loops, size M ONLY: K2, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 3 times, k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k2; sl1, [k1, sl 1] to end of rnd.
Following round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rnds until all of the loops of the fourth set are nearly used up. End on a work loops round.

Next round, establish fifth set of Color Loops on instep, sizes S and L ONLY: K 5[-, 5] (Make CL, k7) 2[-, 3] times; make CL, knit to end of rnd.
Next round, establish fifth set of Color Loops on instep, and set up heel pattern, size M ONLY: K7, (Make CL, k7) 3 times; knit to end of rnd.

Next round, work loops, sizes S and L ONLY: K4, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 2[-, 3] times; k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k4; slip marker, p2 (sl1, k1) to last 3 sts, sl1, p2.

Next round, work loops, size M ONLY: K6, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 3 times, k1; slip marker, p2, (sl1, k1) to last 3 sts, sl1, p2.

Heel flap
Turn work so that WS is facing.
Row 1 [WS]: P 29[33, 37] , turn.
Heel is worked only on these sts. Rearrange sts as you prefer.
Row 2 [RS]: P2, (sl1, k1) to the last 3 sts, sl 1, p2. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1-2 15[16, 17] more times, and work Row 1 once more. (Right side will have 16[17, 18] purl bumps including the one purl bump from the pre-heel.)

Heel turn
Row 1 (RS): K 17[19, 21] , SSK, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 19[21, 23] stitches rem.

Final RS row: Sl 1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk, turn.
Final WS row: Sl 1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, turn. 17[19, 21] sts rem.

Gusset & Foot
Set up: Knit across rem heel sts. With left needle, pick up but do not knit 16[17, 18] sts in the purl bumps along the edge of the heel flap, then knit across them. This is the new start of round.

Round 1: Knit 27[31, 35] stitches of instep. With left needle, pick up but do not knit 16[17, 18] sts in the purl bumps along the edge of the heel flap, then knit across them; knit to end of round. 76[84, 92] sts.

Round 2: Work across instep in patt as set; k2tog, k to end of round. 1 st decreased.
Round 3: Work across instep in patt as set; k to last 2 sts, ssk. 1 st decreased.

Note: Read ahead before you proceed.
Repeat Rounds 2-3, 10 more times until 54[62, 70] sts rem – 27[31, 35] sts each on sole and instep. When gusset decreases are complete, work even on sole stitches. AT THE SAME TIME, work the following Color Loop pattern on instep:

When first set of Color Loops are nearly used up, create next set as follows:

Offset Color Loop round, sizes S and L ONLY: K9, (Make CL, k7) 2[-, 3] times, k2; work to end of rnd.
Offset Color Loop round, size M ONLY: K3, (Make CL, k7) 3 times, Make CL, k3; work to end of rnd.

Next round, work loops, sizes S and L ONLY: K8, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 2[-, 3] times, work to end of rnd.
Next round, work loops, size M ONLY: K2, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 3 times, k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k2; work to end of rnd.

Work until Offset Color Loops are nearly used up, then create next set as follows:

Next round, work loops, sizes S and L ONLY: K 5[-, 5] (Make CL, k7) 2[-, 3] times; make CL, k5; work to end of rnd.
Next round, work loops, size M ONLY: K7, (Make CL, k7) 3 times; work to end of rnd.

Next round, work loops, sizes S and L ONLY: K4, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 2[-, 3] times; k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k4; work to end of rnd.
Next round, work loops, size M ONLY: K6, (k1 with loop, k1 MC, k1 with loop, k5 MC) 3 times, k1; work to end of rnd.

Continue in the established pattern alternating Color Loop placement as set until you reach the desired length of foot minus 1.5[1.75, 2] inches/ 4[5, 6] cm. The last set of Color Loops might finish while knitting the toe.

Toe
Row 1 [RS]: Knit to the end of the instep, working Color Loops as needed, turn
Toe is worked only on these sts. Rearrange sts as you prefer.

Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p 26[30, 34] , turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k 24[28, 32] , working Color Loops as needed, RS-shadow, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: P 23[27, 31] , WS-shadow, turn.

Row 5 [RS]: Knit to stitch before the shadow stitch, RS-shadow, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Purl to stitch before the shadow stitch, WS-shadow, turn.

Repeat Rows 5-6 until there are 8[9, 10] shadow stitches on each side. All sizes have one slipped stitch on each end. There are 9[11, 11] center stitches.

Next row [RS]: Knit to the end, knitting both loops of the shadow stitches together in one stitch, turn. (No shadow worked here.)
Following row: Sl 1, purl to the end, turn. (No shadow worked here.)

Second half of toe:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k 17[19, 21] , RS-shadow, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: P 8[9, 10] , WS-shadow, turn.
Row 3: K 9[11, 11] and knit first shadow stitch, RS-shadow, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Purl until the shadow stitch, purl the shadow stitch, WS-shadow, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Knit to shadow stitch, knit the shadow stitch, RS-shadow, turn.

Repeat Rows 4-5 7[7, 8] times, and work Row 4 one more time.

Last row [RS]: Knit to end of the row.
Next and last row [WS]: Sl 1, purl to the end of the row.

Trim yarn with about 2 feet/60cm.

Graft the toe to the sole.

FINISHING

Wash to block, and weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Amelia Archer rediscovered knitting several years ago after seeing a friend knitting socks. Coming back to knitting as an adult and discovering Ravelry, fiber festivals, and the several excellent LYS nearby, she finally learned to knit from patterns inspired by all the gorgeous socks out there! She soon began making up her own designs, and came up with this technique of knitting with loops. Her book Color Loops is an introduction to the idea, using socks as swatches.

She's since added sweaters and cowls to her patterns on Ravelry, and continues to play with Color Loops in many different ways.

Pattern & images © 2021 Amelia Archer