INTRODUCTION

Fall Coil

by Ravid Ekshtain

This textured hat is knitted from the brim up and has a unique coil technique that creates beautiful crown-like pops. I'm always looking for stitch patterns with nupps, bobbles or buds and constantly devising ways to incorporate them in my knitting, as I find three-dimensional fabric interesting to create and attractive to wear.

"Spring coils" are another way to add a decorative motif to your fabric and enrich it with high texture. The Fall Coil hat is a great small project to practice this coil technique. The coils are made every 5 rounds by winding the yarn around the needles, stretching out the wraps, then pulling them snug to form a nice, compact spring-like coil. I especially like it because you can control the tightness of the coils by pulling the yarn tighter or looser, as you like. Once you master making these coils, you can easily incorporate them in many knitted garments.

model: Aya-Shani Schattner

photos: Ravid Ekshtain

SIZE

Adult  S[M,  L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Brim circumference:  16[17.5,  19] inches/  40[43.5,  47.5] cm unstretched. 
Length: approximately  8[8.5,  9] inches/  20[21.5,  23] cm (adjustable)

Choose a size approximately 2-4 inches/5-10 cm smaller than your actual head circumference.

Stretches to fit head circumference  20[22,  23.5] inches/  51[56,  60] cm. You can adjust the length by working additional (or fewer) pattern rounds and/or by changing the length of the ribbing.

MATERIALS

Yarn
Malabrigo Rios [100% Superwash Merino; 210yd/192m per 3.5 oz/100g skein]; color: Ravelry Red; 1 skein.

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a merino worsted-weight yarn. For substitution, a smooth wool or wool/nylon mix of a similar weight should work well. Solid or semi-solid yarns are recommended in order to best set off the coils.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #5/3.75mm 16-inch/40 cm circular needle
For the crown decrease, US #5/3.75mm needles for small circumference in the round

Note: needles with a sharp tip will make the coil stitch easier.

Notions
a large pom-pom (optional)
stitch markers
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/34 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch, after blocking
20 sts/39 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in pattern stitch, after blocking

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Coil stitch (video tutorial): Insert the right needle into the next st, keep both needles crossed and make sure enough of the tips are exposed to accommodate the coil. Wrap the yarn around both needles 10 times in a counterclockwise direction. Wrap another time around the right needle as if to knit the st (yarn is now between the needles). With the right tip, pull the yarn down through all the wraps and to the front of the needle, then push the st and the wraps off the needle. Do not pull on the working yarn yet! Loosely hold the coil and stretch it out by pulling it along the working yarn towards the right. Now pull on the working yarn, and the coil will reform, resembling a spring. Adjust the coil to be tight or loose as you like. The next stitch will always be a p1; as you work it, be sure to keep the coil to the front.

Coil pattern:
Round 1: (Work coil st, p1, k2) around.
Rounds 2-5: Knit all sts.
Round 6: (K2, work coil st, p1) around.
Rounds 7-10: Knit all sts.

DIRECTIONS

Brim
CO  88[96,  104] sts using long-tail or other preferred method. Place marker and join for working in the round.

Ribbing Round: (K1tbl, p1) around.

Work Ribbing for  2.25[2.5, 2.5] inches/ 5.5[6.5, 6.5]  cm or desired length.

Body of Hat
Sizes M and L only, Increase Round: (K -[24,  26] , M1L) 4 times. -[100,  108] sts.

All sizes:
Work Rounds 1-10 of Coil Pattern a total of 4 times (40 rounds total) or to desired length, ending with Round 5 or Round 10. Crown decreases require approximately 1.5[2, 1.75] inches/ 4[5, 4.5] cm.

Size S only:
Knit 2 more rounds.

Size L only:
Knit 6 more rounds.

All sizes:
Crown
Round 1: (K 6[8,  7] , k2tog, pm) around. 77[90, 96] sts.

Round 2: Knit all sts.
Round 3: (Knit to 2 sts before the marker, k2tog, sm) around. 11[10, 12] sts decreased.

Repeat Rounds 2-3 another 4[6, 5] times until 22[20, 24] sts remain. As you work decreases, change to needles for small circumference as the hat gets too small for your circular needle, removing or adjusting marker placement as required.

Break yarn, thread it on a yarn needle and pull through remaining sts. Pull tight, then draw yarn through sts again to secure.

FINISHING

Block by soaking the hat thoroughly in warm water, gently squeezing out the excess water and laying flat to dry. Do not stretch or pin. Once dry, weave in ends.

Attach a pom-pom as desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Ravid lives in the warm climate of the Middle East (Israel) where she designs in view of the beautiful 'Yizrael valley. She likes wearing knitted garments with lots of texture and is obsessed with cables, bobbles and other motifs. Lately, handspun yarn has become one of her preferred materials for knitting because it gives her the opportunity to play with different spinning methods and create different types of fabrics. Her favorite designs include socks, cardigans and cowls.

You can also find her on Instagram, and her patterns are available on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2023 Ravid Ekshtain