INTRODUCTION

Call & Response

by Laura Barker

Call and response may be found in music, dance, cheers, and protests, among other places, when something is initiated and then imitated in an interactive way. The Call & Response Vest is worked in stripes, with the first half of each row worked in one color (the call), and the second half (response) mirrors the call in a contrasting color. In a literal twist: a cable at the front, the two colors switch order between stripes.

The vest begins with a ribbed hem that may be worked with flat intarsia (tangy) or intarsia-in-the round (piquant)—both options are given. The body of the sample pullover is worked seamlessly from the ribbing up. While it appears to be worked in the round, it is actually worked as flat intarsia and open at the front, except for the cables. The edges are finished with stretchy i-cord that is worked as you go, so the finishing is minimal--mostly grafting the shoulders.

model: Aubrey

photos: Kellie Nuss

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S with 1.5 inches/3.5 cm of ease at largest part of chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust:  32.25[36, 41, 44.5, 49.5, 53.25, 57, 61.75, 65.5] inches/ 82[91.5, 104, 113, 125.5, 135.5, 145, 157, 166.5] cm
Length:  21.5[22, 22.25, 22.5, 22.75, 23, 23, 23.5, 23.5] inches / 54.5[56, 56.5, 57, 58, 58.5, 58.5, 59.5, 59.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Ístex Álafosslopi [100% Icelandic wool; 109 yds/100m per 100g skein];
[MC] 0058 Dark Grey; 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] skeins
[CC] 0008 Light Denim Heather; 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a bulky-weight rustic wool. The rustic yarn provides bulk without too much weight. Another lighter-weight bulky yarn, perhaps with a chainette construction, would work well.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 24-60-inch/60-150-cm. Choose a length 4-6 inches/10-15cm shorter than bust measurement.
US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle, 24-60-inch/60-150-cm. Choose a length 4-6 inches/10-15cm shorter than bust measurement.

Notions
cable needle
stitch holders
crochet hook
waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

13 sts/19 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needle.

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: The vest is worked from the hem up. While it appears to be in the round, it is actually worked flat, but on a circular needle. The neck and arm openings are finished with a stretchy i-cord that is worked as you go, so finishing is minimal. The stretchy i-cord simply adds extra stitches strategically to anchor the i-cord to the vest when working extra i-cord rows to make the i-cord a bit longer. This makes the i-cord length better match the adjacent vest.

Circular needles are still required as every 21 rows, the two sides are cabled, drawing the front together. A stretchy i-cord bind-off is used to bind off for the armholes. The stretchy i-cord continues around the armholes. Similarly, the neck also begins with a stretchy i-cord bind-off. Each side of the vest front is worked symmetrically with stretchy i-cord at the neck and armholes worked concurrently with the vest fronts. Short rows shape the shoulders. After the vest fronts and back are grafted together, stretchy i-cord bind-off is worked across the back neck stitches, then the remaining i-cord is grafted together. The openings are already finished, with no stitch pickup required.

Stretchy I-cord: The armholes and neck opening are worked with stretchy applied i-cord and i-cord bind-off, always worked on the RS. It sounds more complicated than it is. Extra rows of i-cord are worked to make the length of the i-cord match the length of the garment. To prevent holes, extra stitches are briefly added and then decreased so that every i-cord row is securely anchored to the garment. Work as follows:

Si-cBOrz, Stretchy i-cord bind-off zero sts at right edge:
Row 1 [RS]: K3, m1. 1 st inc. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; work remainder of row according to pattern instructions.

Si-cBOlz, Stretchy i-cord bind-off zero sts at left edge:
Work row according to pattern instructions to last 3 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: M1, k3. 1 st inc. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased.

Si-cBOr1, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 1 st at right edge:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, ssk, m1. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; work remainder of row according to pattern instructions.

Si-cBOl1, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 1 st at left edge:
Work row according to pattern instructions to last 4 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: M1, k2tog, k2. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased.

Si-cBOr2, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 2 sts at right edge:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, ssk, m1. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; work remainder of row according to pattern instructions.

Si-cBOl2, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 2 sts at left edge:
Work row according to pattern instructions to last 4 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: M1, k2tog, k2. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 3 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased.

Si-cBOr3, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 3 sts at right edge:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, ssk, m1. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 4 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; work remainder of row according to pattern instructions.

Si-cBOl3, Stretchy i-cord bind-off 3 sts at left edge:
Work row according to pattern instructions to last 4 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: M1, k2tog, k2. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 3 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased. Slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle; do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 4 [RS]: K2tog, k2. 1 st decreased.

Si-cBOm, Stretchy i-cord bind-off mid-row:
Set-up: With waste yarn, crochet CO 3 sts onto left-hand needle,
Set-up Row: [RS]: Knit 3, slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle. 3 sts increased and 3 provisional sts created to be revealed later when crochet CO is “unzipped.” Do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, ssk, slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, ssk, m1, slip 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle. Do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, ssk, slip 3 sts back onto the left-hand needle. 1 st decreased. Do not turn; keep yarn taut.
Row 4 [RS]: K2, ssk. 1 st decreased.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until required total number of sts have been decreased, then work remainder of row according to pattern instructions.

Following the pattern: You will see some instructions that look like this: "Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1]". This means that for some sizes a Si-cBOrz is worked, for others a Si-cBOr1. It might help to print out the instructions for the Stretchy I-Cord stitches (immediately above) on a separate page and keep it handy until you get the hang of it. If you're using knitty+, hiding the instructions for the sizes you're not using will make this easier to follow.

Techniques:

• crochet cast-on
• Link yarns: Twist strands of CC and MC together to close the gap between the two colours. Demonstrated here: Intarsia worked flat | Intarsia in the round
• SRT (short-row turn): use Wrap & Turn or German Short Rows.

DIRECTIONS

Cast-on and Stripe 1 for Tangy Version (intarsia worked flat)
With smaller circ, MC, and using the crochet cast-on method (see Pattern Notes), CO  54[60, 68, 74, 82, 88, 94, 102, 108] sts (right front and right back), with CC, CO  54[60, 68, 74, 82, 88, 94, 102, 108] sts (left back and left front). 108[120, 136, 148, 164, 176, 188, 204, 216] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: With CC, p2, (k1, p1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of CC), link yarns, with MC, (p1, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [RS]: With MC, k2, (p1, k1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of MC), link yarns, with CC, (k1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until ribbing measures approx. 2.25 inches/5.5 cm, ending after Row 1 [WS].

Row 3 [RS]: With MC, sl 1, k1, psso, (p1, k1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of MC), link yarns, with CC, (k1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2. 107[119, 135, 147, 163, 175, 187, 203, 215] sts.
Row 4 [WS]: With CC, sl 1, p1, psso, (k1, p1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of CC), link yarns, with MC, (p1, k1) to last st, p1. 106[118, 134, 146, 162, 174, 186, 202, 214] sts.
Skip to Body, completing Stripe 1 below.

Cast-on and Stripe 1 for Piquant Version (intarsia worked in the round)
With smaller circ, MC, and using the crochet cast-on method (see Pattern Notes), CO  53[59, 67, 73, 81, 87, 93, 101, 107] sts (right front and right back), with CC, CO  53[59, 67, 73, 81, 87, 93, 101, 107] sts (left back and left front). 106[118, 134, 146, 162, 174, 186, 202, 214] sts. Turn.
Row 1 [WS]: Being careful not to twist work, with MC, create a long float across back of work and link with CC (see tutorial for working Intarsia in the round). With CC, p1, (k1, p1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of CC), pass CC under MC float to link yarns; with MC float and gently pulling additional working yarn as needed, (p1, k1) to last st, p1. Gently pull MC until no float remains; turn.
Row 2 [RS]: With CC, create a long float across back of work and link with MC. With MC, k1, (p1, k1) 26[29, 33, 36, 40, 43, 46, 50, 53] times (to end of MC), pass MC under CC float to link yarns; with CC float and gently pulling additional working yarn as needed, (k1, p1) to last st, k1. Gently pull CC until no float remains; turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until ribbing measures approx 2.5 inches/6.5 cm, ending after Row 1 [WS].

Body
Continue Stripe 1:

Note: Vest is worked the same from here, regardless of cast-on method. Note that the MC and CC are linked mid-row (center back) for flat intarsia, but are not linked at beginning or end of row (center front).

Row 1 [RS]: With MC, (k1, m1) 3 times, k 50[56, 64, 70, 78, 84, 90, 98, 104] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, knit to last 3 sts, (m1, k1) 3 times. 112[124, 140, 152, 168, 180, 192, 208, 220] sts.

Change to larger circ.

Row 2 [WS]: With CC, p 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with MC, purl to end.
Row 3 [RS]: With MC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, knit to end.
Rows 4-7: Repeat Rows 2-3 two more times.
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9 [RS]: With MC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, knit to last 7 sts.
Cable [RS]: Slip 7 CC sts to cn and hold in front with working yarn. Slip 7 MC sts to right needle. (If worked flat to this point, be careful not to twist work.) Slip 7 CC sts to left needle. Stitches will be very tight at cable for a few rows. Do not turn.

Body, Stripe 2
Row 1 [RS]: With CC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with MC, knit to end.
Row 2 [WS]: With MC, p 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, purl to end.
Rows 3-20: Repeat Rows 1-2 nine more times.
Row 21 [RS]: With CC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with MC, knit to last 7 sts.
Cable [RS]: Slip 7 MC sts to cn and hold in front with working yarn. Slip 7 CC sts to right needle. Slip 7 MC sts to left needle. Stitches will be very tight at cable for a few rows. Do not turn.

Body, Stripe 3
Row 1 [RS]: With MC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, knit to end.
Row 2 [WS]: With CC, p 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with MC, purl to end.
Rows 3-20: Repeat Rows 1-2 nine more times.
Row 21 [RS]: With MC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, knit to last 7 sts.
Cable [RS]: Slip 7 CC sts to cn and hold in front with working yarn. Slip 7 MC sts to right needle. Slip 7 CC sts to left needle. Stitches will be very tight at cable for a few rows. Do not turn.

Body, Stripe 4
Row 1 [RS]: With CC, k 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with MC, knit to end.
Row 2 [WS]: With MC, p 56[62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 96, 104, 110] (to middle of row), link yarns, with CC, purl to end.
Rows 3-4: Repeat Rows 1-2 one more time.

Armhole Bind-off, continuing Stripe 4
Row 5 [RS]: With CC, k 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] (right front), Si-cBOm 4[6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 20, 22] sts, k 24[26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] (to middle of back), link yarns, with MC, k 24[26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] (left back), Si-cBOm 4[6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 20, 22] sts, break yarn. Place 3 i-cord sts and rem 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] unworked MC sts (left front) on stitch holder. Place next 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] CC sts and 3 “unzipped” provisionally CO sts (right front) onto separate stitch holder. Turn and cont working on these sts only for Back.

Vest Back, continuing Stripe 4
Row 6 [WS]: “Unzip” and place 3 provisionally CO sts, properly mounted, onto left-hand needle, with MC (left back), sl3, p 24[26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] , link yarns, with CC (right back), p 24[26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] , sl3. 54[58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 80, 86, 90] sts.
Row 7 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOr1, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, knit to last 4 sts, Si-cBOl1. 2 sts decreased.
Row 8 [WS]: With MC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 7-8 1[2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times more. 50[52, 54, 58, 60, 64, 66, 72, 76] sts.

Sizes XS[S, M, L, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Row 9 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOrz, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz.
Row 10 [WS]: With MC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 7-8 once more. 48[50, 52, 56, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes XS[S, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Repeat Rows 9-10 3[2, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] times more.

All sizes
 48[50, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 72, 76] sts.

Note: All sizes have completed 20 rows of Stripe 4.

Row 21 [RS]: With CC, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, knit to end. Break MC. Do not turn; slide stitches to opposite end of circ. Join MC at right edge.

Vest Back, Stripe 5
Sizes -[-, -, -, -, -, 3X, 4X, 5X] only:
Row 1 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOr1, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to last 4 sts, Si-cBOl1. 2 sts decreased.
Row 2 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 1-2 -[-, -, -, -, -, 1, 3, 5] times more. -[-, -, -, -, -, 62, 64, 64] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X] only:
Row 3 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz.
Row 4 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 5 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOr1, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to last 4 sts, Si-cBOl1. 2 sts decreased.
Row 6 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 3-6 -[-, -, -, 0, 2, 1, 1, 1] time(s) more. -[-, -, -, 58, 58, 58, 60, 60] sts.

All sizes
Armhole shaping has been completed. 48[50, 52, 56, 58, 58, 58, 60, 60] sts.

Row 7 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz.
Row 8 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.

Repeat Rows 7-8 until armhole measures approx. 7[7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9] inches/ 18[19, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 23, 23] cm, ending after a WS row.

Shape back shoulders:
Row 1 [RS]: With MC, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to last 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, SRT.
Row 2 [WS]: With CC, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, SRT.
Row 3 [RS]: With MC, knit to middle of row, link yarns, with CC, knit to end.
Row 4 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Break yarns. Place vest back stitches on stitch holder.

Vest Front, continuing Stripe 4
Note: Although the Left and Right Vest Fronts will not be linked in the middle (center front) until Row 21, both are worked at the same time. Note that through the armhole bind-off in Stripe 4, for RS rows, the right front was worked first, followed by the right back, the left back, and finally the left front. When working the front only, on RS rows, the left front is worked first, followed by the right front.

Place 3 i-cord sts and rem 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] MC sts (left front) onto larger circ with RS facing.

Row 5 [RS]: With MC, sl3, k 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] . Do not turn. Slip 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] CC sts (right front) followed by 3 provisionally CO sts, properly mounted, onto circ. I-cord sts will be at each edge. 62[66, 72, 76, 82, 86, 88, 94, 98] sts.

Row 6 [WS]: With CC, sl3, p 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] (right front), DO NOT link yarns, with MC, p 28[30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 44, 46] , sl3 (left front).
Row 7 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOr1, 27[29, 32, 34, 37, 39, 40, 43, 45] (middle of row), DO NOT link yarns, with CC, knit to last 4 sts, Si-cBOl1. 2 sts decreased.
Row 8 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, DO NOT link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 7-8 1[2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times more. 58[60, 62, 66, 68, 72, 74, 80, 84] sts.

Sizes XS[S, M, L, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Row 9 [RS]: With MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to middle of row, DO NOT link yarns, with CC, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz.
Row 10 [WS]: With CC, sl3, purl to middle of row, DO NOT link yarns, with MC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Repeat Rows 7-8 once more. 56[58, 60, 64, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes XS[S, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Repeat Rows 9-10 3[2, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] times more.

All Sizes
 56[58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 74, 80, 84] sts.

Note: All sizes have completed 20 rows of Stripe 4.

Row 21 [RS]: With MC, k 20[21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 29, 32, 34] , slip 8 MC sts to cn and hold in front with working yarn. With MC, [k2tog (1 MC st from cn and 1 CC st from left-hand needle)] four times, link yarns, with MC, [k2tog (1 MC st from cn and 1 CC st from left-hand needle)] four times, with CC, k 20[21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 29, 32, 34] . Break CC. Do not turn; slide stitches to opposite end of circ. Join CC at right edge. 48[50, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 72, 76] sts.

Vest Fronts, Stripe 5
Row 1 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1] , k 15[16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 23, 26, 28] , with CC and MC, Si-cBOm12 sts (working provisional CO and first dec with CC, then remainder of row with MC), cont with MC, knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1] . Including provisional cast-on stitches, both fronts have 3 i-cord sts at each edge with 15[16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 23, 26, 28] stockinette stitches in-between. 21[22, 23, 25, 27, 29, 29, 32, 34] total sts each side.

Note: You will now work with MC only for Right Front and with CC only for Left Front, working each Front at the same time. You will no longer link yarns. Instructions for each front are divided by a semi-colon (;).

Row 2 [WS]: With MC, sl3, p 14[15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22, 25, 27] , sl4; place 3 provisionally CO sts, properly mounted, onto right-hand needle, with CC, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 3: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] , k 13[14, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 22, 24] , Si-cBOl 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] ; with MC, Si-cBOr 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] , knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, Si-cBOl z[z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] . 19[20, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 28, 30] sts each side.
Row 4: With MC, sl3, p 12[13, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 21, 23] , sl4; with CC, sl4, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 5: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, z, z, 1, 1] , k 11[12, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 21] , Si-cBOl2; with MC, Si-cBOr2, knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] sts, Si-cBOl z[z, z, z, z, z, z, 1, 1] . 17[18, 19, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 27] sts each side.
Row 6: With MC, sl3, p 11[12, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 18, 20] , sl 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] ; with CC, sl 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] , purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 7: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1] , k 10[11, 12, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 18] , Si-cBOl 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] ; with MC, Si-cBOr 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] , knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, Si-cBOl z[z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1] . 16[17, 18, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 24] sts each side.
Row 8: With MC, sl3, p 10[11, 12, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 18] , sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 9: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, z, z, z, 1] , k 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 16] , Si-cBOl z[z, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] ; with MC, Si-cBOr z[z, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] , knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] sts, Si-cBOl z[z, z, z, z, z, z, z, 1] . 16[17, 17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 22] sts each side.
Row 10: With MC, sl3, p 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 16] , sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 11: With CC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1] , k 10[11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 15] , Si-cBOl z[z, z, 1, z, z, z, z, z] ; with MC, Si-cBOr z[z, z, 1, z, z, z, z, z] , knit to last 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, Si-cBOl z[z, z, z, z, 1, 1, 1, 1] . 16[17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20, 21] sts each side.
Row 12: With MC, sl3, p 10[11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 15] , sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 13 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOrz, k 10[11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 15] , Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz. 16[17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20, 21] sts each side.
Row 14 [WS]: With MC, sl3, p 10[11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 15] , sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.

Sizes XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, -, -] only:
Repeat Rows 13-14 until armhole measures approx. 7[7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5, -, -] inches/ 18[19, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, -, -] cm, ending after a WS row.

Sizes -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 4X, 5X] only:
Row 15 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOr1, k -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 14] , Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last 4 sts, Si-cBOl1. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 19, 20] sts each side.
Row 16 [WS]: With MC, sl3, p -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 14] , sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 17: With CC, Si-cBOrz, k -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 13, 14] , Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz.
Row 18: Repeat Row 16.
Row 19: With CC, Si-cBOr -[-, -, -, -, -, -, z, 1] , k13, Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 3, 4] sts, Si-cBOl -[-, -, -, -, -, -, z, 1] . 19 sts each side.
Row 20: With MC, sl3, p13, sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.
Row 21 [RS]: With CC, Si-cBOrz, k13, Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last 3 sts, Si-cBOlz. 19 sts each side.
Row 22 [WS]: With MC, sl3, p13, sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.

Repeat Rows 21-22 until armhole measures approx. 9 inches/23 cm, ending after a WS row.

All Sizes: 16[17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19] sts each side.

Shape front shoulders:
Row 1 [RS]: With CC, knit to last 3 sts of Left Front, Si-cBOlz; with MC, Si-cBOrz, knit to last 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, SRT.
Row 2 [WS]: With MC, purl to last 3 sts of Right Front, sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, SRT.
Row 3 [RS]: With CC, k 8[8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] ; with MC, k 16[17, 17, 18, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19] .
Row 4 [WS]: With MC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts of Right Front, sl3; with CC, sl3, purl to last 3 sts, sl3.

Place Right Front (MC) sts on holder.

Grafting Shoulders:
Place sts held for Back on smaller circ.

With RS facing, CC, and working from left armhole edge, join first 13[14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16] sts using Kitchener stitch. Place remaining 3 i-cord sts from Front on holder. Slide rem 35[36, 38, 41, 42, 42, 42, 44, 44] to other end of cable.

Place held Right Front (MC) sts on larger needle.

Join MC at armhole edge and graft first 13[14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16] sts using Kitchener stitch. 3 i-cord sts from Front and 22[22, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26, 28, 28] back neck sts rem.

With MC and CC, and omitting provisional cast-on as there are already 3 i-cord sts, work Rows 1-4 of Si-cBOm to decrease 22[22, 24, 26, 26, 26, 26, 28, 28] sts (first 10[10, 11, 12, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13] decreases are worked with MC, remainder of bind-off is worked with CC).

3 i-cord stitches remain for Front and Back at left neck edge. Graft together.

FINISHING

If ribbing was worked flat, sew ribbing only together. Do not sew St st sections together. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

Note: Measurements do not include i-cord edgings.
A—Bust circumference: 32.25[36, 41, 44.5, 49.5, 53.25, 57, 61.75, 65.5] inches / 82[91.5, 104, 113, 125.5, 135.5, 145, 157, 166.5] cm
B—Body length: 14.5 inches / 37 cm
C—Armhole length: 7[7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9] inches / 18[19, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 23, 23] cm
D—Cross shoulder width: 14.5[15.75, 17, 18.75, 20, 20.5, 21.75, 23, 23.75] inches / 37[40, 43, 47.5, 51, 52, 55, 58.5, 60.5] cm
E—Back neck width: 6.75[6.75, 7.5, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5] inches / 17[17, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Laura is a lifelong knitter and former engineer and math teacher. She enjoys combining all the best of her experience in her favorite career, knitting design and education. Her designs feature innovative construction with clear instruction. She has published patterns in Knitty, I Like Knitting, Interweave Knits, Knit Now, Knitter's Magazine, and Vogue Knitting. She was an instructor at a DC LYS and has taught for Stitches Events and various festivals and retreats. She was founding VP of the Capitol Hill Knitting Guild.

Find her work on Ravelry and Instagram as CathedralKnits.

Pattern & images © 2026 Laura Barker